In the house where I slept—­as indeed in every house of the same character in the county—­the whole stock of the family, consisting chiefly of cows and sheep, were locked in at night.  Such was the extreme poverty of the people that they would not be otherwise safe.  The weather was excessively wet, and, for the season, cold.  There was a slight partition between the room where my bed was and the kitchen, where there were three cows, a man, his wife and four children.  It is impossible to convey any idea of the sensations which crowd upon one in such a scene.  I fell asleep at last, lulled by the heavy breathing and monotonous ruminating of the cows.  Never was deeper sleep.  On being awakened next morning by my watchful friend, it required some time before I could satisfy myself of my position.  An excellent breakfast was provided for me, and I parted from my stout-hearted and magnanimous ally.  He had sent my baggage, and also provided me with a guide who would lead me across the mountains.  He taught me the password of his clan, which I was to use on certain contingencies.  The morning was fearfully wet, and we did not travel many miles before we were wet to the skin.  The circumstance was the most auspicious that could occur, as it enabled us to pass unobserved.

[Illustration:  James Stephens (Circa 1867)]

[Illustration:  John O’Mahony (Circa 1868)]

Besides this, it facilitated the task of crossing streams, which we always did precisely as if they were dry land.  One river only opposed a serious barrier to us—­that, which enters Kenmare Bay.  It was greatly swollen, and rushed fiercely over precipitous rocks.  At the same time, even in the rain and tempest, to cross the bridge was not to be thought of.  The guide pointed out a house belonging to one of our friend’s clan who immediately provided a horse and accompanied us to a ford.  When we reached the ford he hesitated to cross, so deep and rapid was the flood.  No persuasion could induce him to make the experiment.  I had no choice left but to trust myself to chance.  I faced the animal against the current, and forcing him to make his best efforts to mount the stream, we were carried directly across.  The owner of the horse said he would come back of his own accord.  I turned him into the stream, and when half way across, he was borne headlong over a precipice, where I concluded he was dashed to pieces.  Another horse was immediately procured, by a man who had no fears, to bring the guide across; but the latter was so terrified that he made himself drunk ere he attempted the dangerous passage.  As he was essential to me in consequence of the arrangements made about my luggage, I endeavoured to rouse him.  He staggered on for several miles, but seemed utterly unconscious where he was going.  When I found him incapable of directing me, I endeavoured to procure some food for him, and with that view proceeded to a mountain hut, but before I reached it, he sank down