We dismissed the ambassador who had acquired for us
these new allies. They, or rather he, of whom
I have last spoken offered us money which we declined.
In opposition to his remonstrance, we insisted on remaining
for the night at a publichouse in the village of Cross.
He, to whom peril was new, could not understand our
“audacity.” But we who had experienced
the disadvantages of asking for entertainment in quarters
where such things were unusual, preferred the chance
of escaping unobserved among crowds of persons similar
in appearance and, applying only for ordinary accommodation.
In this and many such instances we determined aright.
We obtained a comfortable bed and passed unnoticed.
Next morning we set out for the southern slope of the
Killarney mountains. As soon as we attained a
safe elevation, we took a western direction, skirting
those mountains and crossing the road which leads
from Killarney to Kenmare, about five miles from the
latter town. We then kept a westerly direction,
and turned round the vast bog situated at the western
side of the road. This bog contains several thousand
acres, and seems quite susceptible of reclamation and
improvement. We ascended the steep hill at the
north-western boundary where we slept for an hour
or so, and then resumed our journey in the direction
of the Reeks. We purposed ascending the loftiest
of these mountains, and not wishing to take the route
by the Gap of Dunloe, we crossed the intermediate
valley and began to ascend the mountain to the north,
believing it to be that which we had determined to
climb. After having toiled to the summit, we
discovered in the distance the peak we were in search
of, its wonderful elevation leaving no manner of doubt
as to its identity. Between us and its base lay
another broad valley. Before attempting the ascent,
we secured a lodging at the foot, and leaving our
coats behind, we began our task about four o’clock
in the evening, having then travelled upwards of twenty
miles and crossed two large mountains. The southern
acclivity is more steep than the northern, and we
lost much by our ignorance of the best routes; but
we reached Carn-Tuathail, far the highest spot in
Ireland, about sunset. The view that presents
itself from that peak is of the most extraordinary
character. Stretching out into the sea a distance
of thirty miles, is a jumble of mountains tossed together
in the wildest confusion, and exhibiting no definite
outline. At the east, far inland, lay the long
ridge of which Mangerton is the loftiest point.
At the north alone could we discern an extensive view,
where a rich and well cultivated valley extended along
Dingle Bay as far as Ballyheige. But the grandeur
of the scene Jay at our feet. Beneath us yawned
at every side chasms of seemingly unfathomable depth,
whose darkness it was impossible to penetrate, as
the sun was sinking in the Atlantic. It was really
a spectacle full of grandeur and of awe, and we remained
enjoying it till the last ray of the sun ceased to
glimmer on the distant waters.