Bank and Railway-station, which would hold their own
in any city. At the same time, as a place of
residence in the summer months, I can well understand
Cape Town being wellnigh deserted. Those who can
boast of even the most moderate means have their residences
in the attractive suburbs of Rondebosch, Newlands,
or Wynberg, and innumerable are the pretty little
villas and gardens one sees in these vicinities.
There the country is beautifully wooded, thick arching
avenues of oak extending for miles, interspersed with
tracts of Scotch firs and pines, the latter exhaling
a delicious perfume under the sun’s powerful
rays. Everywhere green foliage and abundant vegetation,
which, combined with the setting of the bluest sky
that can be imagined, make the drives round Cape Town
some of the most beautiful in the world. At Newlands,
the Governor’s summer residence, a pretty but
unpretentious abode, Sir Hercules and Lady Robinson
then dispensed generous hospitality, only regretting
their house was too small to accommodate visitors,
besides their married daughters. We stayed at
the Vineyard Hotel in the immediate neighbourhood—a
funny old-fashioned hostelry, standing in its own
grounds, and not in the least like an hotel as we understand
the word. There whole families seemed to reside
for months, and very comfortable it was, if somewhat
primitive, appearing to keep itself far apart from
the rush of modern improvements, and allowing the world
to go by it unheeded. Only half a mile away,
at Rondebosch, was situated then, as now, on the lower
slopes of Table Mountain, the princely domain of the
late Mr. Cecil Rhodes. At the moment of which
I write the house itself was only approaching completion,
and I must now record a few particulars of our introduction
to this great Englishman and his world-famed home.
We drove to Groot Schuurr, or “Great Barn,”
one afternoon with Mr. Beit. The house is approached
by a long avenue of enormously high Scotch firs, which
almost meet aloft, and remind one of the nave of some
mighty cathedral, such is the subdued effect produced
by the sunlight even on the brightest summer day.
A slight rise in the road, a serpentine sweep, and
the house itself comes into view, white, low, and
rambling, with many gables and a thatched roof.
The right wing was then hidden by scaffolding, and
workmen were also busy putting in a new front-door,
of which more anon; for a tall, burly gentleman in
a homely costume of flannels and a slouch hat emerged
from the unfinished room, where he would seem to have
been directing the workmen, and we were introduced
to Cecil John Rhodes, the Prime Minister of Cape Colony.