I visited other advanced trenches that night as we followed the Belgian lines slowly northward toward Nieuport.

Save the varying conditions of discomfort, they were all similar.  Always they were behind the railroad embankment.  Always they were dirty and cold.  Frequently they were full of mud and water.  To reach them one waded through swamps and pools.  Just beyond them there was always the moonlit stretch of water, now narrow, now wide.

I was to see other trenches later on, French and English.  But only along the inundation was there that curious combination of beauty and hideousness, of rippling water with the moonlight across it in a silver path, and in that water things that had been men.

In one place a cow and a pig were standing on ground a little bit raised.  They had been there for weeks between the two armies.  Neither side would shoot them, in the hope of some time obtaining them for food.

They looked peaceful, rather absurd.

Now so near that one felt like whispering, and now a quarter of a mile away, were the German trenches.  We moved under their fusees, passing destroyed towns where shell holes have become vast graves.

One such town was most impressive.  It had been a very beautiful town, rather larger than the others.  At the foot of the main street ran the railroad embankment and the line of trenches.  There was not a house left.

It had been, but a day or two before, the scene of a street fight, when the Germans, swarming across the inundation, had captured the trenches at the railroad and got into the town itself.

At the intersection of two streets, in a shell hole, twenty bodies had been thrown for burial.  But that was not novel or new.  Shell-hole graves and destroyed houses were nothing.  The thing I shall never forget is the cemetery round the great church.

Continental cemeteries are always crowded.  They are old, and graves almost touch one another.  The crosses which mark them stand like rows of men in close formation.

This cemetery had been shelled.  There was not a cross in place; they lay flung about in every grotesque position.  The quiet God’s Acre had become a hell.  Graves were uncovered; the dust of centuries exposed.  In one the cross had been lifted up by an explosion and had settled back again upside down, so that the Christ was inverted.

It was curious to stand in that chaos of destruction, that ribald havoc, that desecration of all we think of as sacred, and see, stretched from one broken tombstone to another, the telephone wires that connect the trenches at the foot of the street with headquarters and with the “chateau.”

Ninety-six German soldiers had been buried in one shell hole in that cemetery.  Close beside it there was another, a great gaping wound in the earth, half full of water from the evening’s rain.

An officer beside me looked down into it.