set of people. The governor, although the servant
of a republic, takes upon himself more state, in some
particulars, than any sovereign prince in Europe.
Whenever he goes abroad, he is attended by a party
of horse-guards, and two black men go before his coach
in the manner of running-footmen; each having a large
cane in his hand, with which they not only clear the
way, but severely chastise all who do not pay the
homage that is expected from people of all ranks, as
well those belonging to the country as strangers.
Almost every body in this place keeps a carriage,
which is drawn by two horses, and driven by a man upon
a box, like our chariots, but is open in front:
Whoever, in such a carriage, meets the governor, either
in the town or upon the road, is expected not only
to draw it on one side, but to get out of it, and make
a most respectful obeisance while his excellency’s
coach goes by; nor must any carriage that follows
him drive past on any account, but keep behind him,
however pressing be the necessity for haste. A
very mortifying homage of the same kind is also exacted
by the members of the council, called Edele Heeren;
for whoever meets them is obliged to stop his coach,
and, though not to get out, to stand up in it, and
make his reverence. These Edele Heeren are preceded
by one black man with a stick; nor must any person
presume to pass their carriage any more than that
of the governor. These ceremonies are generally
complied with by the captains of Indiamen and other
trading ships; but, having the honour to bear his
majesty’s commission, I did not think myself
at liberty to pay to a Dutch governor any homage which
is not paid to my own sovereign: It is, however,
constantly required of the King’s officers;
and two or three days after I came hither, the landlord
of the hotel where I lodged told me, he had been ordered
by the shebander to let me know, that my carriage,
as well as others, must stop, if I should meet the
governor or any of the council; but I desired him to
acquaint the shebander, that I could not consent to
perform any such ceremony; and upon his intimating
somewhat about the black men with sticks, I told him,
that if any insult should be offered me, I knew how
to defend myself, and would take care to be upon my
guard; at the same time pointing to my pistols, which
then happened to lie upon the table. Upon this
he went away, and about three hours afterwards he returned,
and told me he had orders from the governor to acquaint
me that I might do as I pleased. The hotel at
which I resided is licensed by the governor and council,
and all strangers are obliged to take up their abode
there, except officers in his majesty’s service,
who are allowed private lodgings, which, however,
I did not chose.