both the beds were for us.  The servant said she couldn’t tell, but “Missis says they are both to be made.”  We had evidently been taken for shepherds, and at first we were inclined to feel angry, for no one came to ask us if we required anything to eat or drink.  We could have done with a good supper, but fortunately we had replenished our bags at Fort Augustus, so we were in no danger of being starved.  We scribbled in our diaries by the feeble light of the candle which the servants had left on one of the tables, and as no one turned up to claim the second bed we occupied both.  There was no lock or fastening on the door, but we barricaded it securely with two of the forms—­and it was perhaps as well that we did so, for some one tried to open it after we were in bed—­and we slept that night not on feathers, but on chaff with which the beds or mattresses were stuffed.

(Distance walked twenty-seven miles.)

Wednesday, September 27th.

“The sleep of a labouring man is sweet,” and so was ours on the primitive beds of the shepherds.  But the sounds in the rear of the hotel awoke us very early in the morning, and, as there was every appearance of the weather continuing fine, we decided to walk some distance before breakfast.  We asked one of the servants how much we had to pay, and she returned with an account amounting to the astounding sum of sixpence!  Just fancy, ye Highland tourists! ye who have felt the keen grip of many an hotel-keeper there—­just fancy, if ye can, two of us staying a night at a large hotel in the Highlands of Scotland for sixpence!

We followed the servant to a small room at the front of the hotel, where a lady was seated, to whom the money had to be paid; the surprised and disappointed look on her face as we handed her a sovereign in payment of our account was rich in the extreme, amply repaying us for any annoyance we might have experienced the night before.  What made the matter more aggravating to the lady was that she had not sufficient change, and had to go upstairs and waken some unwilling money-changer there!  Then the change had to be counted as she reluctantly handed it to us and made a forlorn effort to recover some of the coins.  “Won’t you stay for breakfast?” she asked; but we were not to be persuaded, for although we were hungry enough, we were of an unforgiving spirit that morning, and, relying upon getting breakfast elsewhere, we thanked her and went on our way rejoicing!

About a mile farther on we reached the ruins of Glengarry Castle, which stand in the private grounds of the owner, but locks and bolts prevented us from seeing the interior.  This castle remains more complete than many others and still retains its quadrangular appearance, much as it was when Prince Charlie slept there during his flight after Culloden, and, although not built on any great elevation, it looks well in its wooded environs and well-kept grounds.  A story was told of the last Lord Glengarry who, in