Golspie was only a short distance away from the castle, and we were anxious to get there, as we expected letters from home, so we called at the post office first and got what letters had arrived, but another mail was expected.  We asked where we could get a cup of coffee, and were directed to a fine reading-room opposite, where we adjourned to read our letters and reply to them with the accompaniment of coffee and light refreshments.  The building had been erected by the Sutherland family, and was well patronised, and we wished that we might meet with similar places in other towns where we happened to call.  Such as we found farther south did not appear to be appreciated by the class of people for whom they were chiefly intended.  This may be accounted for by the fact that the working-class Scots were decidedly more highly educated than the English.  We were not short of company, and we heard a lot of gossip, chiefly about what was going on at the castle.

On inquiring about our next stage, we were told that it involved a twenty-five-mile walk through an uninhabited country, without a village and with scarcely a house on the road.  The distance we found afterwards had been exaggerated, but as it was still raining and the shades of evening were coming on, with our recent adventures still fresh in our minds and the letter my brother expected not having yet arrived, we agreed to spend the night at Golspie, resolving to make an early start on the following morning.  We therefore went into the town to select suitable lodgings, again calling at the post office and leaving our address in the event of any letters coming by the expected mail, which the officials kindly consented to send to us, and after making a few purchases we retired to rest.  We were just dozing off to sleep, when we were aroused by a knock at our chamber door, and a voice from without informed us that our further letters and a newspaper had arrived.  We jumped out of bed, glad to receive additional news from the “old folks at home,” and our sleep was no less peaceful on that account.

(Distance walked eighteen miles.)

Friday, September 22nd.

We rose at seven o’clock, and left Golspie at eight en route for Bonar Bridge.  As we passed the railway station we saw a huge traction engine, which we were informed belonged to the Duke of Sutherland, and was employed by him to draw wood and stone to the railway.  About a mile after leaving the town we observed the first field of wheat since we had left John o’ Groat’s.  The morning had turned out wet, so there was no one at work among the corn, but several machines there showed that agriculture received much attention.  We met some children carrying milk, who in reply to our inquiry told us that the cows were milked three times each day—­at six o’clock in the morning, one o’clock at noon, and eight o’clock at night—­with the exception of the small Highland cows, which were only milked twice.  As we were looking over the