Passing through Clapham, said to be one of the finest villages in England, and where there was a cave supposed to run about half a mile underground, we came to some fine limestone cliffs to the left of our road, which were nearly white as we approached nearer to the town of Settle, situated at the foot of Giggleswick Scar, alongside which our road passed.  We visited the Ebbing and Flowing Well, where the much-worn stones around it proclaimed the fact that for many ages pilgrims had visited its shrine; but how “Nevison’s Nick,” a famous highwayman, could have ridden his horse up the face of the rock leading up to it—­even with the aid of his magic bridle—­was more than we could understand.  Another legend stated that a nymph pursued by a satyr was so afraid that he would overtake her that she prayed to the gods to change her into a spring.  Her prayer was granted, and the ebbs and flows in the water were supposed to represent the panting of the nymph in her flight.

[Illustration:  THE MARKET-PLACE, SETTLE.]

We turned aside to visit Giggleswick village, with its old cross, which seemed to be nearly complete, and we found the old church very interesting.  It contained some ancient monuments, one of which represented Sir Richard Temple, born 1425, knighted at the Battle of Wakefield, 1460, attainted for treason 1461, pardoned by King Edward IV, and died 1488, the head of his charger being buried with him.  There was also the tomb of Samuel Watson, the “old Quaker,” who interrupted the service in the church in 1659, when the people “brok his head upon ye seates.”  Then there was the famous Grammar School, a very old foundation dating back to early in the sixteenth century.  We were delighted with our visit to Giggleswick, and, crossing the old bridge over the River Ribble, here but a small stream, we entered the town of Settle and called for tea at Thistlethwaite’s Tea and Coffee Rooms.  There were several small factories in the neighbourhood.  We noticed that a concert had recently been held in the town in aid of a fund for presenting a lifeboat to the National Society, one having already been given by this town for use on the stormy coasts of the Island of Anglesey.

[Illustration:  GIGGLESWICK CHURCH.]

Leaving Settle by the Skipton road, we had gone about a mile when we met two men who informed us we were going a long way round either for Ripon or York.  They said an ancient road crossed the hills towards York, and that after we had climbed the hill at the back of the town we should see the road running straight for fourteen miles.  This sounded all right, and as the new moon was now shining brightly, for it was striking six o’clock as we left the town, we did not fear being lost amongst the hills, although they rose to a considerable height.  Changing our course, we climbed up a very steep road and crossed the moors, passing a small waterfall; but whether we were on or off the ancient road we had no means