Monday, October 16th.

The morning was showery, but we were obliged to continue our walk, so we left Keswick with the intention of visiting the Falls of Lodore, the large Bowder Stone, and the Yew Trees in Borrowdale, and afterwards crossing over the fells to visit the graves of the poets at Grasmere.  We had been recommended to ascend the Castle Rigg, quite near the town, in order to see the fine views from there, which included Bassenthwaite Lake and Derwent Water.  The poet Gray, who died in 1771, was so much impressed by the retrospect, and with what he had seen from the top where once the castle stood, that he declared he had “a good mind to go back again.”  Unfortunately we had to forgo even that ascent, as the rain descended in almost torrential showers.  So we journeyed on in the rain alongside the pretty lake of Derwent Water, which is about three miles long and about a mile and a half broad, the water being so clear, we were informed, that a small stone could be seen even if five or six yards below the surface.  It was certainly a lovely lake, and, with its nicely wooded islands dotting its surface, recalled memories of Loch Lomond.  The first of these islands, about six acres in extent, was named the Vicar’s or Derwent Island, on which a family mansion had been erected.  On Lord’s Island, which was quite near the side, were the ruins of an old summer-house built by the Ratcliffe family with the stones from their ruined castle on Castlerigg.  The third island, which was in the centre of the lake, also had a summer-house that had been built there by the late Sir Wilfrid Lawson, composed of unhewn stone and covered with moss to make it look ancient.  This was known as St. Herbert’s Island, after a holy hermit who lived there in the sixth century, the ruins of whose hermitage could still be traced.  It was said that so great and perfect was the love of this saintly hermit for his friend St. Cuthbert of Holy Island, whose shrine was ultimately settled at Durham, that he used to pray that he might expire the moment the breath of life quitted the body of his friend, so that their souls might wing their flight to heaven in company.

Although not so large as Lake Windermere, Derwent Water was considered the most beautiful of the lakes because of these lovely islands on its surface and the grand hills that encircled it.  This lake of unsurpassed beauty was associated both in name and reality with the unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, who suffered death for the part he took in the Jacobite rising in 1715, and to whom Lord’s Island belonged.  He was virtually compelled by his countess to join the rising, for when she saw his reluctance to do so, she angrily threw her fan at his feet, and commanded him take that and hand her his sword.  The Earl gravely picked it up, returned it to her, and, drawing his sword, cried, “God save King James!” The Jacobites were supporters of James II, who was supplanted by William III, Prince of Orange, in 1689,