When the tea came round there were no nice young ladies to ask us if we took sugar and milk, and how many pieces of sugar; to our great amusement the tea was poured into our cups from large tin kettles carried by men who from their solemn countenances appeared fitting representatives of “Caledonia stern and wild.”  We thought this method a good one from the labour-saving point of view, and it was certainly one we had never seen adopted before.  The weak point about it was that it left no opportunity for individual taste in the matter of milk and sugar, which had already been added, but as we did not hear any complaints and all appeared satisfied, we concluded that the happy medium had been reached, and that all had enjoyed themselves as we did ourselves.

Our friend the schoolmaster was very communicative, and added to our pleasure considerably by his intelligent conversation, in the course of which he told us that the I.O.G.T. was a temperance organisation introduced from America, and he thought it was engaged in a good work.  The members wore a very smart regalia, much finer than would have suited us under the climatic conditions we had to pass through.  After tea they gave us an entertainment consisting of recitations and songs, the whole of which were very creditably rendered.  But the great event of the evening was the very able address delivered by the Rev. Professor Kirk, who explained the objects of the Good Templar movement and the good work it was doing in Edinburgh and elsewhere.  Every one listened attentively, for the Professor was a good speaker and he was frequently applauded by his audience.

We had spent a very pleasant evening, and the schoolmaster accompanied us nearly all the way to our lodgings, which we reached at 11 p.m.

(Distance walked up to 2 p.m. twenty-four miles.)

Sunday, October 8th.

To judge by what we heard and saw, there were connected with Edinburgh three great characters who stand out above all others in historic importance—­Mary Queen of Scots, John Knox, and Sir Walter Scott; but we thought and read more about John Knox this day than either of the others, possibly because it was Sunday.  We attended service in three different churches, and give the following particulars for the information of our clerical and other friends who “search the Scriptures,” in the hope that they may find in the reading of the texts food for thought.

[Illustration:  EDINBURGH FROM THE CASTLE]

In the morning we went to the High Church.  Preacher, the Rev. C. Giffin,
M.A.  Text. 2 Corinthians viii. 13 and to the end.

In the afternoon to the Tron Church.  Preacher, the Rev. James McGregor, D.D.  Text:  Isaiah lvii., the last three verses, and Ephesians ii. and the first clause of verse 14.

In the evening to the Wesleyan Chapel, Nicolson Square.  Preacher, the Rev. Dr. James, President of the Wesleyan Conference.  Text:  I Corinthians ii. 1, 2.