during the night; and this probably accounted for
our sleeping longer than usual, for it was quite nine
o’clock before we left Helensburgh on our way
to Dumbarton. If the atmosphere had been clear,
we should have had fine views of Greenock, Port Glasgow,
Roseneath Castle, the residence of the Marquis of Lorne,
and other places of interest across the Clyde, and
of the ships passing up and down the river. As
it was, we had to be content with listening to the
busy sounds of labour and the thuds of the steam hammers
in the extensive shipbuilding yards across the water,
and the ominous sounds of the steam-whistles from
the ships, as they ploughed their way along the watery
tracks on the Clyde. We were naturally very much
disappointed that we had to pass along this road under
such unfavourable conditions, but, as the mist cleared
a little, we could just discern the outlines of one
or two of the steamboats as we neared Dumbarton.
The fields alongside our road were chiefly devoted
to the growth of potatoes, and the fine agricultural
land reminded us of England. We stayed to speak
with one of the farmers, standing at his gate, and
he told us that he sent potatoes to the Manchester
market, which struck us with surprise because of the
great distance. We also stayed awhile, just before
entering Dumbarton, as there had been a slight railway
accident, probably owing to the fog, and the officials,
with a gang of men, were making strenuous efforts
to remove the remains of a truck which had come to
grief. We were walking into the town quite unconscious
of the presence of the castle, and were startled at
its sudden appearance, as it stood on an isolated
rock, rising almost perpendicularly to the height
of about 300 feet, and we could only just see its dim
outline appearing, as it were, in the clouds.
We left it for future inspection and, as it was now
twelve o’clock, hurried into the town for a noon
dinner, for which we were quite ready.
As a sample of the brief way in which the history of an important town can be summarised, we give the following extract:—
Dumbarton, immortalised by Osian, possessed in turns by first Edward and John Balliol, the prison of William Wallace, and the scene of that unavailing remorse which agonised the bosom of his betrayer (a rude sculpture within the castle represents Sir John Monteith in an attitude of despair, lamenting his former treachery), captured by Bruce, unsuccessfully besieged by the fourth Edward, reduced by the Earl of Argyll, surprised, while in false security, by the daring of a bold soldier, Captain Crawford, resided in by James V, visited by that fair and erring Queen, the “peerless Mary,” and one of the four castles kept up by the Act of Union.
And we have been told that it was the birthplace of Taliesin, the early poet of the Celts, and Gildas their historian.