We therefore hurried on, and eventually reached the lovely little village of Luss, where, as we entered, we were welcomed by the warbling of a robin singing out right merrily, as if to announce our arrival.  Our first impression soon told us that Luss was well patronised by visitors and by artists ever on the alert for scenery such as here abounded.  It was quite an English-looking village, with a small quarry, not as extensively worked as formerly, we were informed, for only about twenty men were now employed.

Before proceeding farther we called for refreshments, and learned that a steamboat called periodically at Luss.  We left this favourite resort by the Dumbarton road, walking alongside Loch Lomond—­one of the finest walks we ever took and quite baffling description.  It was rather provoking, therefore, when darkness came on just as we reached the widest part of the Loch where quite a number of islands could be seen.  The road still continued beautiful, being arched over with trees in some places, with the stars shining brightly above.

Luss, we learned, had its place in history as the home of the Colquhouns, whose feud with the MacGregors led to such murderous results.  But perhaps its associations with Robert Bruce in his days of adversity form its greater claim to fame, and the yews on Inch Lonaig, just above, are said to have been planted by him to supply his bowmen.

Before we reached the end of the loch we turned on the Dumbarton road, following the road for Helensburgh, as we wanted to see the River Clyde.  This road was fairly level, but about two miles from Helensburgh it rose to an elevation of about 300 feet.  On reaching the top, we saw a sight which fairly startled us, for a great stretch of water suddenly and unexpectedly came in view, and across its surface we could see hundreds of gas lights, twinkling like stars in the darkness.  We found afterwards that they were those of the town of Greenock, on the other side of the Clyde Estuary, which was some five or six miles across this, its widest part.  We considered this was one of the greatest sights of our journey, and one well worth while climbing the hill to see.  It must, however, be noted that these were the first gas lights we had seen for what seemed to us to be ages.  We went straight to the Temperance Hotel, which had been closed for the night, but we gained admission and found comfortable quarters there.

(Distance walked thirty-one miles.)

Wednesday, October 4th.

We had pictured Helensburgh, from its name, as a very old town, and were rather surprised when we discovered that it was only founded at the close of the eighteenth century, by Sir James Colquhoun, who named the place after his wife, the Lady Helen Sutherland.  At the time of our visit it was a favourite resort of visitors from across the Clyde and elsewhere.  We were unable to explore the town and its environs, owing to a dense mist or fog which had accumulated