Some miles to the westward lies the pretty island
of Sherkin, which with Tullough to the east, makes
the charming little bay of Baltimore completely landlocked.
Out in front of all, like a giant sentinel, stands
the island of Cape Clear, breasting with its defiant
strength that vast ocean whose waves foam around it,
lashing its shores, and rushing up its crannied bluffs,
still and for ever to be flung back in shattered spray
by those bold and rocky headlands. The town of
Skibbereen consists chiefly of one long main street,
divided into several, by different names. This
street is like a horse-shoe, or rather a boomerang,
in shape. Coming to the curve and turning up
the second half of the boomerang, we are almost immediately
in Bridge-street, a name well known in the famine time;
not for anything very peculiar to itself, but because
it leads directly to the suburb known as Bridgetown,
in which the poorest inhabitants resided, and where
the famine revelled—hideous, appalling,
and triumphant. Bridgetown is changed now.
In 1846 it contained a large population, being not
much less than half a mile in length, with a row of
thatched houses on each side; when the Famine slaughtered
the population, those houses were left tenantless
in great numbers, and there being none to reoccupy
them, they fell into ruins and were never rebuilt.
Hence instead of a continuous line of dwellings at
either side, as of old, Bridgetown now presents only
detached blocks of three or four or half-a-dozen cabins
here and there. Coming towards the end of it,
by a gradual ascent, I accosted a man who was standing
at the door of his humble dwelling: “I suppose
you are old enough,” I said to him, “to
remember the great Famine?” “Oh! indeed
I am, sir,” he replied, with an expressive shake
of his head. “Were there more people in
Bridgetown and Skibbereen at that time than now?”
“Ay, indeed,” he replied, “I suppose
more than twice as many.” “And where
did they all live—I see no houses where
they could have lived?” “God bless you,
sure Bridgetown was twice as big that time as it is
now; the half of it was knocked or fell down, when
there were no people to live in the houses. Besides,
great numbers lived out in the country, all round
about here. Come here,” he said, earnestly;
and we ascended the road a little space. “Do
you see all that country, sir?” and he pointed
towards the north and west of the town. “I
do.” “Well, it was all belonging
to farmers, and it was full of farmers’ houses
before the famine; now you see there are only a couple
of gentlemen’s places on the whole of it.
The poor all died, and of course their houses were
thrown down.” “And where were they
all buried,” I enquired. “Well, sir,”
he replied, “some of them were buried in the
old chapel yard, near the windmill; a power of them
were buried in Abbeystrowry, just out there a bit,
where you are going to, but—” he suddenly
added, as if correcting himself—“sure
they were buried everywhere—at the Workhouse
over—in the cabins where they died—everywhere;
there was no way, you see, to bring them all to Abbeystrowry,
but still there were a power of them, sure enough,
brought to it.”