of me at times, and it was destined to be a trip of
which I shall always retain very vivid recollections.
On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances
are of no inconvenience to travellers, had been converted
into veritable roaring torrents, causing me on more
than one occasion to think twice before attempting
a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible,
let me remark that it rained all day; travelling was
not only difficult but positively dangerous, and I,
being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on my mule.
All this made travelling so slow that I was still a
long way from “El Injenio,” my objective
point for the night, when darkness overtook me.
I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which
I have already described, and I therefore did not
trust to getting over them on muleback, but took the
safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of leading
my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to
become worse very soon. I arrived at one of those
swollen mountain streams, the appearance of which
in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule
would not look at it, and for a while I did not know
exactly what to do. I could judge that it was
four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a great
rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped
to keep our feet if we had attempted crossing, as
it was about thirty feet wide. I left my mule
and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I
came to what had been a bridge, but which was partly
washed away, leaving a gap of about four feet in the
middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain light,
and over which it was impossible for a mule to go.
Leaving my mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately,
got over all right, but, after all, I did not know
in the least where I was, and, before attempting to
return to my animal, I started to go forward in the
hope of at least striking some sheltered spot where
I might pass the night. Meantime, however, I
heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side,
and now completely isolated from my mule and saddle-bags.
There was no use fretting, so I continued moving on—it
was now dark—feeling my way, and keeping
very carefully away from the river. I had not
proceeded very far before my progress was all too
suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
know what actually did take place, but the facts are
as follows: In groping my way along I had actually
been walking on the very edge of a sort of precipice,
and apparently had simply stepped over the side.
At any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily
for me, was only about fifteen feet; but it was quite
a bump, and I wondered where I had actually landed.
As it was so black, and I did not know anything of
my surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain
where I had fallen until morning. I ought to
tell you that, although I had plenty of matches, they
were all wet with the rain, so that they would not