We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get something to make a fire with.  With great good fortune we, after a great deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.  I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium.  For cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so desirable.  Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings—­and it did turn out a tiresome night—­it rained all the time and the cold was extreme—­so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.

I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion.  Then I was only accompanied by two Indians—­no white people—­and was travelling towards Sorata.  I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day.  I was suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had been travelling also affected me grievously.  I arrived at Tolapampa soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and really more dead than alive.  To aggravate matters we could not light a fire—­everything was wet—­and I can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us.  Another gang of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.  However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to get me to “buck up,” and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one.  They also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I scrambled in amongst them—­Indians all round me—­so as to benefit from the heat of their bodies.  It was neither a very pleasant nor a very clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate I got some rest.

It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain ceased.  I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a promise they would follow me at 10 o’clock.  It was very disappointing, but I was determined to get forward at all cost.  I therefore started on my lonely journey at eight o’clock, with the rain, and at times sleet, coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front