interior of every beast that is killed, and being
also a surgeon, I suppose the subject must be interesting.
White terns abounded on the island. They were
ghost-like and so tame that they would sit on one’s
hat. They laid their eggs on pinnacles of
rock without a vestige of nest, and singly.
They looked just like stones. I suppose this was
a protection from the land-crabs, about which
you will have heard. The land-crabs of Trinidad
are a byword and they certainly deserve the name,
as they abound from sea-level to the top of the island.
The higher up the bigger they were. The surface
of the hills and valleys was covered with loose
boulders, and the whole island being of volcanic
origin, coarse grass is everywhere, and at about
1500 feet is an area of tree ferns and subtropical
vegetation, extending up to nearly the highest
parts. The withered trees of a former forest
are everywhere and their existence unexplained,
though Lillie had many ingenious theories. The
island has been in our hands, the Germans’, and
is now Brazilian. Nobody has been able to
settle there permanently, owing to the land-crabs.
These also exclude mammal life. Captain Kidd
made a treasure depot there, and some five years ago
a chap named Knight lived on the island for six
months with a party of Newcastle miners—trying
to get at it. He had the place all right,
but a huge landslide has covered up three-quarters
of a million of the pirate’s gold.
The land-crabs are little short of a nightmare.
They peep out at you from every nook and boulder.
Their dead staring eyes follow your every step
as if to say, ’If only you will drop down
we will do the rest.’ To lie down and sleep
on any part of the island would be suicidal. Of
course, Knight had a specially cleared place with
all sorts of precautions, otherwise he would never
have survived these beasts, which even tried to
nibble your boots as you stood—staring hard
at you the whole time. One feature that would
soon send a lonely man off his chump is that no
matter how many are in sight they are all looking
at you, and they follow step by step with a sickly
deliberation. They are all yellow and pink, and
next to spiders seem the most loathsome creatures
on God’s earth. Talking about spiders
[Bowers always had the greatest horror of spiders]—I
have to collect them as well as insects. Needless
to say I caught them with a butterfly net, and
never touched one. Only five species were
known before, and I found fifteen or more—at
any rate I have fifteen for certain. Others helped
me to catch them, of course. Another interesting
item to science is the fact that I caught a moth
hitherto unknown to exist on the island, also
various flies, ants, etc. Altogether it was
a most successful day. Wilson got dozens
of birds, and Lillie plants, etc. On
our return to the landing-place we found to our horror
that a southerly swell was rolling in, and great
breakers were bursting on the beach. About
five P.M. we all collected and looked at the whaler