It happened to us, however, to get a preliminary glimpse of French Protestantism in a characteristic, although wholly modern, development before leaving Grenoble.  We applied to the Protestant clergyman there for information respecting the details of our proposed tour.  Pleased with our project, he told us the story of a mission which he had established under circumstances altogether unique, and invited us to join him in paying it a visit.  The scene of his enterprise was a sunny little village lying high among vineyarded hills, and bearing the name of Notre Dame des Commiers.  Owing to its remoteness and insignificance, the Roman Catholic authorities had never replaced its last priest, who withdrew during the turmoils of the Revolution.  For all their ecclesiastical needs the people were obliged to descend to the next village, the cure of which gave them little pastoral care beyond the thrifty collection of his dues.  Learning these facts, our Grenoble friend determined to take advantage of the situation.  He presented himself in the village and told the people he was willing to become their pastor.  He only asked them to acknowledge the validity of baptism and marriage performed by him, and to pledge him their support in the struggle with the priests that would probably ensue.  Later, he said, he hoped to convince them that he taught a better religion than that at the hands of whose ministers they had suffered such neglect.  A majority of the villagers accepted his proposal, and by a formal act constituted themselves a Protestant commune.  By so doing they were able to secure recognition by the government as belonging to the National Protestant Church of France.  It was not long before the parishioners grew warmly attached to their new pastor.  His position of assistant at Grenoble enabled him to assume the sole charge of the enterprise.  Week after week he made the tedious stage-coach journey, walking up the two-mile hill at the foot of which he had to quit the highway.  Often in winter he toiled for hours through deep snow and faced violent storms in making the ascent.  In the worst weather it sometimes happened that the whole journey from Grenoble had to be made on foot.  For two years he carried on the work unaided, holding his services in such rude quarters as he was able to secure.  The village is now, after an interval of seven years since the missionary’s first visit, adorned with a pretty chapel and school-house and provided with a resident minister.

In talking with the people we found abundant proof that their Protestant faith is both intelligent and practical.  Such of them as were not busy in the fields surrounded their old pastor with greetings that touchingly expressed their affection and gratitude, and we, as his friends, had a share in the demonstration.  One stalwart, clear-eyed old woman obliged us to sit down in front of her chalet, cheerfully explaining that she had just been burned out, and that the shed in which she had found a shelter was not fit for us