are very agreeable.  But politics intervene here, as in everything else in Ireland, to mar considerably the brilliancy of the vice-regal court.  When the Whigs are “in” the Tory aristocracy hold off from “the Castle,” and vice versa.  Dublin is generally much more brilliant under a Tory viceroy, inasmuch as nine-tenths of the Irish peerage and landed gentry support that side of politics.  The vice-reign of the duke of Abercorn, the last lord-lieutenant, will long be remembered as a period of exceptional splendor in the annals of Dublin.  He maintained the dignity of the office in a style which had not been known for half a century, and in this respect proved particularly acceptable to people of all classes.  Besides, he is a man of magnificent presence, and has a fitting helpmate (sister of Earl Russell) and beautiful daughters; and it was universally admitted that the round people had got into the round holes, so far as the duke and duchess were concerned.

The lord-lieutenant’s levees and drawing-rooms take place at night, and are therefore much more cheerful than similar ceremonials at Buckingham Palace.  His Excellency kisses all the ladies presented to him.  The vice-regal salary is one hundred thousand dollars, with allowances, but most viceroys spend a great deal more.  There are in such a poor country, where people have no sort of qualms about asking, innumerable claims upon their purses.

The office of viceroy of Ireland is one which prime ministers find it no easy task to fill.  Just that kind of person is wanted for the office who has no wish to hold it.  A great peer with half a million of dollars’ income doesn’t care about accepting troublesome and occasionally anxious duties, from which he, at all events, has nothing to gain.  For some time Lord Derby was in a quandary to get any one who would do to take it, and it may be doubted whether the marquis of Abercorn would have sacrificed himself if the glittering prospect of a coronet all strawberry leaves (for he was created a duke while in office) had not been held before his eyes.  The vice-regal lodge is a plain, unpretending building.  It is charmingly situated in the Phoenix Park (1760 acres), and commands delightful views over the Wicklow Mountains.  Within, it is comfortable and commodious.  The viceroy resides there eight months in the year.  He goes to “the Castle” from December to April.  The Castle is “no great thing.”  It is situated in the heart of Dublin.  Around it are the various government offices.  St. Patrick’s Hall is a fine apartment, but certainly does not deserve the name of magnificent, and is a very poor affair compared with the reception-saloons of third-rate continental princes.

The Dublin season culminates, so far at least as the vice-regal entertainments go, in the ball given here on St. Patrick’s Day (March 17).  On such occasions it is de rigueur to wear a court-dress.  Even those who venture to appear in the regulation trowsers admissible at a levee at St. James’s are seriously cautioned “not to do it again.”