The kitchen is always in charge of the cook.  In a small house, or in an apartment, she is alone and has all the cooking, cleaning of kitchen and larder, to do, the basement or kitchen bell to answer, and the servants’ table to set and their dishes to wash as well as her kitchen utensils.  In a bigger house, the kitchen-maid lights the kitchen fire, and does all cleaning of kitchen and pots and pans, answers the basement bell, sets the servants’ table and washes the servants’ table dishes.  In a still bigger house, the second cook cooks for the servants always, and for the children sometimes, and assists the cook by preparing certain plainer portions of the meals, the cook preparing all dinner dishes, sauces and the more elaborate items on the menu.  Sometimes there are two or more kitchen-maids who merely divide the greater amount of work between them.

In most houses of any size, the cook does all the marketing.  She sees the lady of the house every morning, and submits menus for the day.  In smaller houses, the lady does the ordering of both supplies and menus.

How a Cook Submits the Menu

In a house of largest size—­at the Gildings for instance, the chef writes in his “book” every evening, the menus for the next day, whether there is to be company or not. (None, of course, if the family are to be out for all meals.) This “book” is sent up to Mrs. Gilding with her breakfast tray.  It is a loose-leaf blank book of rather large size.  The day’s menu sheet is on top, but the others are left in their proper sequence underneath, so that by looking at her engagement book to see who dined with her on such a date, and then looking at the menu for that same date, she knows—­if she cares to—­exactly what the dinner was.

If she does not like the chef’s choice, she draws a pencil through and writes in something else.  If she has any orders or criticisms to make, she writes them on an envelope pad, folds the page, and seals it and puts the “note” in the book.  If the menu is to be changed, the chef re-writes it, if not the page is left as it is, and the book put in a certain place in the kitchen.

The butler always goes into the kitchen shortly after the book has come down, and copies the day’s menus on a pad of his own.  From this he knows what table utensils will be needed.

This system is not necessary in medium sized or small houses, but where there is a great deal of entertaining it is much simpler for the butler to be able to go and “see for himself” than to ask the cook and—­forget.  And ask again, and the cook forget, and then—­disturbance!—­because the butler did not send down the proper silver dishes or have the proper plates ready, or had others heated unnecessarily.

=THE KITCHEN-MAID=

The kitchen-maids are under the direction of the cook, except one known colloquially as the “hall girl” who is supervised by the housekeeper.  She is evidently a survival of the “between maid” of the English house.  Her sobriquet comes from the fact that she has charge of the servants’ hall, or dining-room, and is in fact the waitress for them.  She also takes care of the housekeeper’s rooms, and carries all her meals up to her.  If there is no housekeeper, the hall girl is under the direction of the cook.