The butler also usually answers the telephone—­if not, it is answered by the first footman.  The first footman is deputy butler.

The footmen also take turns in answering the door.  In houses of great ceremony like those of the Worldlys’ and the Gildings’, there are always two footmen at the door if anyone is to be admitted.  One to open the door and the other to conduct a guest into the drawing-room.  But if formal company is expected, the butler himself is in the front hall with one or two footmen at the door.

The Footmen’s Livery

People who have big houses usually choose a color for their livery and never change it.  Maroon and buff, for instance, are the colors of the Gildings; all their motor cars are maroon with buff lines and cream-colored or maroon linings.  The chauffeurs and outside footmen wear maroon liveries.  The house footmen, for everyday, wear ordinary footmen’s liveries, maroon trousers and long-tailed coats with brass buttons and maroon-and-buff striped waistcoats.

For gala occasions, Mrs. Gilding adds as many caterer’s men as necessary, but they all are dressed in her full-dress livery, consisting of a “court” coat which comes together at the neck in front, and then cuts away to long tails at the back.  The coat is of maroon broadcloth with frogs and epaulets of black braiding.  There is a small standing collar of buff cloth, and a falling cravat of pleated cream-colored lace worn in front.  The waistcoat is of buff satin, the breeches of black satin, cream-colored stockings, pumps, and the hair is powdered.  It is first pomaded and then thickly powdered.  Wigs are never worn.

Mrs. Worldly however compromises between the “court” footman and the ordinary one, and puts her footmen in green cloth coats cut like the everyday liveries, with silver buttons on which the crest is raised in relief, but adds black velvet collars, and black satin waistcoats in place of the everyday striped ones.  Black satin knee breeches, black silk stockings, and pumps with silver buckles, and their ordinary hair, cut short.

The powdered footman’s “court” livery is, as a matter of fact, very rarely seen.  Three or four houses in New York, and one or two otherwhere, would very likely include them all.  Knee breeches are more usual, but even those are seen in none but very lavish houses.

To choose servants who are naturally well-groomed is more important than putting them in smart liveries.  Men must be close shaven and have their hair well cut.  Their linen must be immaculate, their shoes polished, their clothes brushed and in press, and their finger nails clean and well cared for.  If a man’s fingers are indelibly stained he would better wear white cotton gloves.

=THE COOK=