But the temperature and service of wines which used to be an essential detail of every dinner have now no place at all.  Whether people will offer frapped cider or some other iced drink in the middle of dinner, and a warmed something else to take the place of claret with the fish, remains to be seen.  A water glass standing alone at each place makes such a meager and untrimmed looking table that most people put on at least two wine glasses, sherry and champagne, or claret and sherry, and pour something pinkish or yellowish into them.  A rather popular drink at present is an equal mixture of white grape-juice and ginger ale with mint leaves and much ice.  Those few who still have cellars, serve wines exactly as they used to, white wine, claret, sherry and Burgundy warm, champagne ice cold; and after dinner, green mint poured over crushed ice in little glasses, and other liqueurs of room temperature.  Whiskey is always poured at the table over ice in a tall tumbler, each gentleman “saying when” by putting his hand out.  The glass is then filled with soda or Apollinaris.

As soon as soup is served the parlor-maid or a footman passes a dish or a basket of dinner rolls.  If rolls are not available, bread cut in about two-inch-thick slices, is cut cross-ways again in three.  An old-fashioned silver cake basket makes a perfect modern bread-basket.  Or a small wicker basket that is shallow and inconspicuous will do.  A guest helps himself with his fingers and lays the roll or bread on the tablecloth, always.  No bread plates are ever on a table where there is no butter, and no butter is ever served at a dinner.  Whenever there is no bread left at any one’s place at table, more should be passed.  The glasses should also be kept filled.

=PRESENTING DISHES=

Dishes are presented held flat on the palm of the servant’s right hand; every hot one must have a napkin placed as a pad under it.  An especially heavy meat platter can be steadied if necessary by holding the edge of the platter with the left hand, the fingers protected from being burned by a second folded napkin.

Each dish is supplied with whatever implements are needed for helping it; a serving spoon (somewhat larger than an ordinary tablespoon) is put on all dishes and a fork of large size is added for fish, meat, salad and any vegetables or other dishes that are hard to help.  String beans, braised celery, spinach en branche, etc., need a fork and spoon.  Asparagus has various special lifters and tongs, but most people use the ordinary spoon and fork, putting the spoon underneath and the fork, prongs down, to hold the stalks on the spoon while being removed to the plate.  Corn on the cob is taken with the fingers, but is never served at a dinner party.  A galantine or mousse, as well as peas, mashed potatoes, rice, etc., are offered with a spoon only.

=THE SERVING TABLE=

The serving table is an ordinary table placed in the corner of the dining-room near the door to the pantry, and behind a screen, so that it may not be seen by the guests at table.  In a small dining-room where space is limited, a set of shelves like a single bookcase is useful.