So-called “Russian” service is the only one known in New York which merely means that nothing to eat is ever put on the table except ornamental dishes of fruit and candy.  The meat is carved in the kitchen or pantry, vegetables are passed and returned to the side table.  Only at breakfast or possibly at supper are dishes of food put on the table.

=THE EVER-PRESENT PLATE=

From the setting of the table until it is cleared for dessert, a plate must remain at every cover.  Under the first two courses there are always two plates.  The plate on which oysters or hors d’oeuvres are served is put on top of the place plate.  At the end of the course the used plate is removed, leaving the place plate.  The soup plate is also put on top of this same plate.  But when the soup plate is removed, the underneath plate is removed with it, and a hot plate immediately exchanged for the two taken away.  The place plate merely becomes a hot fish plate, but it is there just the same.

The Exchange Plate

If the first course had been a canape or any cold dish that was offered in bulk instead of being brought on separate plates, it would have been eaten on the place plate, and an exchange plate would have been necessary before the soup could be served.  That is, a clean plate would have been exchanged for the used one, and the soup plate then put on top of that.  The reason for it is that a plate with food on it can never be exchanged for a plate that has had food on it; a clean one must come between.

If an entree served on individual plates follows the fish, clean plates are first exchanged for the used ones until the whole table is set with clean plates.  Then the entree is put at each place in exchange for the clean plate.  Although dishes are always presented at the left of the person served, plates are removed and replaced at the right.  Glasses are poured and additional knives placed at the right, but forks are put on as needed from the left.

May the Plates for Two Persons Be Brought in Together?

The only plates that can possibly be brought into the dining-room one in each hand are for the hors d’oeuvres, soup and dessert.  The first two plates are placed on others which have not been removed, and the dessert plates need merely be put down on the tablecloth.  But the plates of every other course have to be exchanged and therefore each individual service requires two hands.  Soup plates, two at a time, would better not be attempted by any but the expert and sure-handed, as it is in placing one plate, while holding the other aloft that the mishap of “soup poured down some one’s back” occurs!  If only one plate of soup is brought in at a time, that accident at least cannot happen.  In the same way the spoon and fork on the dessert plate can easily fall off, unless it is held level.  “Two plates at a time” therefore is not a question of etiquette, but of the servant’s skill.