The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in Cheddar Gorge suggests that “it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in Alice in Wonderland.”

All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy’s couplet: 

    Dans le Chester sec et rose
    A longues dents, l’Anglais mord.

    In the Chester dry and pink
    The long teeth of the English sink.

Edam and Gouda
     Edam in Peace and War

There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, excellent cheeses.

Pepys’ Diary, March 2,1663

     Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of
     the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland
     cheese for cannon balls.

     The Harbinger (Vermont), December 11, 1847

The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world.  Known as “red balls” in England and katzenkopf, “cat’s head,” in Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas.

Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is horrid.  Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese potted with sauterne.  Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for Edam.

The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed (black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of Friesland and Noord Holland).

The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, come from South Holland.  Some are specially made for the Jewish trade and called Kosher Gouda.  Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes thrice daily in Holland.  A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable.  They’re also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa.

“Eclair Edams” are those with soft insides.

Emmentaler, Gruyere and Swiss

    When the working woman
    Takes her midday lunch,
    It is a piece of Gruyere
    Which for her takes the place of roast.

Victor Meusy

Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkaese, grand Gruyere from France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making and quality of flavor.  They must be uniform, roundish, about the size of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear.