sympathy with humanity; Oriental art, with its gorgeous
materialism, its frank rejection of imitation, its
wonderful secrets of craft and colour, its splendid
textures, its rare metals and jewels, its marvellous
and priceless traditions. They had, indeed,
met before, but in Byzantium they were married; and
the sacred tree of the Persians, the palm of Zoroaster,
was embroidered on the hem of the garments of the Western
world. Even the Iconoclasts, the Philistines
of theological history, who, in one of those strange
outbursts of rage against Beauty that seem to occur
only amongst European nations, rose up against the
wonder and magnificence of the new art, served merely
to distribute its secrets more widely; and in the
Liber Pontificalis, written in 687 by Athanasius, the
librarian, we read of an influx into Rome of gorgeous
embroideries, the work of men who had arrived from
Constantinople and from Greece. The triumph
of the Mussulman gave the decorative art of Europe
a new departure—that very principle of
their religion that forbade the actual representation
of any object in nature being of the greatest artistic
service to them, though it was not, of course, strictly
carried out. The Saracens introduced into Sicily
the art of weaving silken and golden fabrics; and
from Sicily the manufacture of fine stuffs spread to
the North of Italy, and became localised in Genoa,
Florence, Venice, and other towns. A still greater
art-movement took place in Spain under the Moors and
Saracens, who brought over workmen from Persia to make
beautiful things for them. M. Lefebure tells
us of Persian embroidery penetrating as far as Andalusia;
and Almeria, like Palermo, had its Hotel des Tiraz,
which rivalled the Hotel des Tiraz at Bagdad, tiraz
being the generic name for ornamental tissues and
costumes made with them. Spangles (those pretty
little discs of gold, silver, or polished steel, used
in certain embroidery for dainty glinting effects)
were a Saracenic invention; and Arabic letters often
took the place of letters in the Roman characters
for use in inscriptions upon embroidered robes and
Middle Age tapestries, their decorative value being
so much greater. The book of crafts by Etienne
Boileau, provost of the merchants in 1258-1268, contains
a curious enumeration of the different craft-guilds
of Paris, among which we find ’the tapiciers,
or makers of the tapis sarrasinois (or Saracen cloths),
who say that their craft is for the service only of
churches, or great men like kings and counts’;
and, indeed, even in our own day, nearly all our words
descriptive of decorative textures and decorative
methods point to an Oriental origin. What the
inroads of the Mohammedans did for Sicily and Spain,
the return of the Crusaders did for the other countries
of Europe. The nobles who left for Palestine
clad in armour, came back in the rich stuffs of the
East; and their costumes, pouches (aumonieres sarra-sinoises),
and caparisons excited the admiration of the needle-workers