she had worked with gold and precious stones, and the
cope and maniple of St. Cuthbert, which are preserved
at Durham, are considered to be specimens of opus
Anglicanum. In the year 800, the Bishop of Durham
allotted the income of a farm of two hundred acres
for life to an embroideress named Eanswitha, in consideration
of her keeping in repair the vestments of the clergy
in his diocese. The battle standard of King
Alfred was embroidered by Danish princesses; and the
Anglo-Saxon Gudric gave Alcuid a piece of land, on
condition that she instructed his daughter in needle-work.
Queen Mathilda bequeathed to the Abbey of the Holy
Trinity at Caen a tunic embroidered at Winchester by
the wife of one Alderet; and when William presented
himself to the English nobles, after the Battle of
Hastings, he wore a mantle covered with Anglo-Saxon
embroideries, which is probably, M. Lefebure suggests,
the same as that mentioned in the inventory of the
Bayeux Cathedral, where, after the entry relating
to the broderie a telle (representing the conquest
of England), two mantles are described—one
of King William, ’all of gold, powdered with
crosses and blossoms of gold, and edged along the
lower border with an orphrey of figures.’
The most splendid example of the opus Anglicanum
now in existence is, of course, the Syon cope at the
South Kensington Museum; but English work seems to
have been celebrated all over the Continent.
Pope Innocent IV. so admired the splendid vestments
worn by the English clergy in 1246, that he ordered
similar articles from Cistercian monasteries in England.
St. Dunstan, the artistic English monk, was known
as a designer for embroideries; and the stole of St.
Thomas a Becket is still preserved in the cathedral
at Sens, and shows us the interlaced scroll-forms
used by Anglo-Saxon MS. illuminators.
How far this modern artistic revival of rich and delicate
embroidery will bear fruit depends, of course, almost
entirely on the energy and study that women are ready
to devote to it; but I think that it must be admitted
that all our decorative arts in Europe at present have,
at least, this element of strength—that
they are in immediate relationship with the decorative
arts of Asia. Wherever we find in European history
a revival of decorative art, it has, I fancy, nearly
always been due to Oriental influence and contact
with Oriental nations. Our own keenly intellectual
art has more than once been ready to sacrifice real
decorative beauty either to imitative presentation
or to ideal motive. It has taken upon itself
the burden of expression, and has sought to interpret
the secrets of thought and passion. In its marvellous
truth of presentation it has found its strength, and
yet its weakness is there also. It is never
with impunity that an art seeks to mirror life.
If Truth has her revenge upon those who do not follow
her, she is often pitiless to her worshippers.
In Byzantium the two arts met—Greek art,
with its intellectual sense of form, and its quick