can there be any greater error than to imagine that
an unnaturally small waist gives an air of grace,
or even of slightness; to the whole figure. Its
effect, as a rule, is simply to exaggerate the width
of the shoulders and the hips; and those whose figures
possess that stateliness which is called stoutness
by the vulgar, convert what is a quality into a defect
by yielding to the silly edicts of Fashion on the
subject of tight-lacing. The fashionable English
waist, also, is not merely far too small, and consequently
quite out of proportion to the rest of the figure,
but it is worn far too low down. I use the expression
‘worn’ advisedly, for a waist nowadays
seems to be regarded as an article of apparel to be
put on when and where one likes. A long waist
always implies shortness of the lower limbs, and,
from the artistic point of view, has the effect of
diminishing the height; and I am glad to see that many
of the most charming women in Paris are returning
to the idea of the Directoire style of dress.
This style is not by any means perfect, but at least
it has the merit of indicating the proper position
of the waist. I feel quite sure that all English
women of culture and position will set their faces
against such stupid and dangerous practices as are
related by Miss Leffler-Arnim. Fashion’s
motto is: Il faut souffrir pour etre belle; but
the motto of art and of common-sense is: Il faut
etre bete pour souffrir.
* * * * *
Talking of Fashion, a critic in the Pall Mall Gazette
expresses his surprise that I should have allowed
an illustration of a hat, covered with ‘the
bodies of dead birds,’ to appear in the first
number of the Woman’s World; and as I have received
many letters on the subject, it is only right that
I should state my exact position in the matter.
Fashion is such an essential part of the mundus muliebris
of our day, that it seems to me absolutely necessary
that its growth, development, and phases should be
duly chronicled; and the historical and practical value
of such a record depends entirely upon its perfect
fidelity to fact. Besides, it is quite easy
for the children of light to adapt almost any fashionable
form of dress to the requirements of utility and the
demands of good taste. The Sarah Bernhardt tea-gown,
for instance, figured in the present issue, has many
good points about it, and the gigantic dress-improver
does not appear to me to be really essential to the
mode; and though the Postillion costume of the fancy
dress ball is absolutely detestable in its silliness
and vulgarity, the so-called Late Georgian costume
in the same plate is rather pleasing. I must,
however, protest against the idea that to chronicle
the development of Fashion implies any approval of
the particular forms that Fashion may adopt.
* * * * *