it all.  He had not crossed and had to go back to Murree minus everything including servants.  There is excellent Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of 80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do anything but moon about.  I did not then know the great exertion necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with an undertaker.  Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must keep to it and not cross as I intended.  In the evening a slim young native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, “a present.”  I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below the bungalow.  He then went up the river again, and swam down to this side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous velocity.  I gave him eight annas for it.

July 12th, “Sunday.”—­In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning to rain, and I had to move into the house.  It was broad daylight when I was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed.  I said it would rain, and I would halt.  My boy said, “No Sir, no rain.”  I said the sun would come out and it would be burning hot.  He said, “No Sir, no sun.”  I felt it was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, eighteen miles, walking all the way.  A hard march, nothing but steep rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the river, but two or three hundred feet above it.  My Coolies pointed out to me a herd of “chiken” on a very high hill, at least four miles away.  I saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to very small objects, but did not dispute with them.  They say uncivilized man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect.  Met three men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them.  Don’t know who they were.  Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and was delighted to see it was quite close to me.  But alas! several weary miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could be reached.  This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future put no faith in appearances.  The Barahduree here is a two storied one, standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is here confined in a very narrow channel.  I took the upper room which has three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains being crowned with pine forests.  Had neither sun nor rain while marching, but soon afterwards