hovels for the occupation of the garrison.  The ramparts though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow the whole place to pieces.  The ordnance consists of four ancient brass guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill.  On my way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi—­but comparisons are odious.  When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request “bucksheesh” for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded and I doubt not dissatisfied.  After noon I went and selected a lot of papier mache articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them.  Their papier mache is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price.  At this shop they prepared some ladak tea for me, a most delicious beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before tasted in any tea.  It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of plain sugar.

AUGUST 28th.—­A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught one of moderate size.  Early in the morning there was a storm attended with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool.

AUGUST 29th.—­Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon’s Throne) before breakfast.  It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of mankind that was destined to follow them.  I am a tall man and gifted with a considerable length of understanding but the strides I was obliged to take—­sometimes almost bounds—­if calculated to improve my muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind.  However all things have an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view.  I took care to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its stupendous mountain boundaries.  The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a dazzling radiance.  The Jhelum twisting like a “gilded snake” and forming at the foot of the hill the