worse than any pain, or to conclude, how the deadly
climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me
no prospect of improvement. This relation was
scarcely needed to procure me a certificate, stating
that three months leave of absence to Murree was absolutely
essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that
I might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation
of the leave being granted. So the next evening
saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul Pindee, in a
Dak Gharie, accompanied by my dog “Silly”
and my Madrapee servant or “Boy.”
Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed
every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over
the rapid and icy cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock,
the oven in which our soldiers are done to death;
and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving
at the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur
the following morning. That day I called upon
the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom I had served
in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess.
A melancholy dinner it was for me, meeting old friends
whom I had not seen for so long. Yet not possessing
energy enough for conversation or feeling the spirit
of “Hail fellows, well met.” I felt
that my moody silence and ghostlike appearance (for
I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over them.
This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps
the idea that they looked at me with pitying eyes.
But these feelings seized me, and increased till they
became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my
Hotel.
“Three months of my life.”
A diary.
July 4th, 1868.—Started from Murree
for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, Surgeon 36th Regt.
[Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked
on expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did
not, and I marched all the way, nine miles up a steep
hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and put up in
one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party
when the road was being made. I am not tired,
though my left heel is blistered, which is fair considering
I have not walked half a mile for more than a month.
The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds
being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern
Himalayas. The forest too is quite different,
fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful
birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun.
In the evening a thunderstorm came on with a cold
wind from the north, so I made a good fire with a
few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm
became very violent, and large hailstones fell.
July 5th.—Got away at sunrise, the
rain having quite cleared off, and marched on to Doonga
Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, and
then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep
to Doonga Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The
Khuds much grander very deep and precipitous, sometimes
falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of
the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills