by short low spurs which I crossed this morning.  My road to-morrow will be behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley lies.  The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles.  The two portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie is situated at their junction.  The Solab proper is only the eastern arm which is formed into a cul de sac by the mountains, and in which Lalpore stands.

JULY 23rd.—­To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab.  Over a low range of hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of the Pohroo river.  Not finding a good place on that side I forded the river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank.  Fine view from the top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance.  This plain is laid out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages.  The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds.

JULY 24th.—­A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed and uninteresting road to Sopoor.  There were but few trees to afford any shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you know it is impossible to sit down.  From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water lilies.  At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see what it was.  It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no doubt very holy.  A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not unpleasing melody.  They were praying for rain which is rare in this country, and which is now required for the crops.  My boy returned bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton.  Stopped at Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed.  Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very cranky.

JULY 25th.—­Started early for Alsoo.  Found my old boat where I had left it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man.  He acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have employed him.  There was such a scene when my intentions were made known to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they supplicated, but when that proved