July 18th.—­In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended to ascend, and get a coup d’oeil of the valley.  Instead of being on a river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the largest in Kashmir.  Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great portion of the view.  Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which rise very near the water.  We are thirty miles from Baramula.  The lake is in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft delicately flavoured kernel—­heart-shaped, as big as a filbert.  Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their crimson feast.  Alsoo—­a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains.  Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.

July 19th, Sunday.—­On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles.  I left my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and only took my tent and bedding with one week’s stores, the whole only four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work.  For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above Alsoo, and hard toiling it was.  Half way up we met some men with butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would “keep master cool.”  As we rose—­the vale spread out magnificently beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain.  Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its surface skimmed by gorgeous flies.  The summit gained, I was well rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main valley.  A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air laden with the perfume of many flowers.  My Bheisties even exclaimed “bahut ach chtu.”  I gazed entranced.  The descent was long but a much better path.  Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a small yellow plum which was very nice.  Arrived at Lalpore the principal village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very common) covered with its nuts.  This valley abounds with bears, I was certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to the ascent being less steep and the path shady.  Saw a magnificent butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at the very moment I thought I had secured it.  Got a fine one of a commoner sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured.