Balsam Lake was oval-shaped, scarcely more than half a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, but presented a charming picture, with a group of dark gray hemlocks filling the valley about its head, and the mountains rising above and beyond.  We found a bough house in good repair, also a dug-out and paddle and several floats of logs.  In the dug-out I was soon creeping along the shady side of the lake, where the trout were incessantly jumping for a species of black fly, that, sheltered from the slight breeze, were dancing in swarms just above the surface of the water.  The gnats were there in swarms also, and did their best toward balancing the accounts by preying upon me while I preyed upon the trout which preyed upon the flies.  But by dint of keeping my hands, face, and neck constantly wet, I am convinced that the balance of blood was on my side.  The trout jumped most within a foot or two of shore, where the water was only a few inches deep.  The shallowness of the water, perhaps, accounted for the inability of the fish to do more than lift their heads above the surface.  They came up mouths wide open, and dropped back again in the most impotent manner.  Where there is any depth of water, a trout will jump several feet into the air; and where there is a solid, unbroken sheet or column, they will scale falls and dams fifteen feet high.

We had the very cream and flower of our trout-fishing at this lake.  For the first time we could use the fly to advantage; and then the contrast between laborious tramping along shore, on the one hand, and sitting in one end of a dug-out and casting your line right and left with no fear of entanglement in brush or branch, while you were gently propelled along, on the other, was of the most pleasing character.

There were two varieties of trout in the lake,—­what it seems proper to call silver trout and golden trout; the former were the slimmer, and seemed to keep apart from the latter.  Starting from the outlet and working round on the eastern side toward the head, we invariably caught these first.  They glanced in the sun like bars of silver.  Their sides and bellies were indeed as white as new silver.  As we neared the head, and especially as we came near a space occupied by some kind of watergrass that grew in the deeper part of the lake, the other variety would begin to take the hook, their bellies a bright gold color, which became a deep orange on their fins; and as we returned to the place of departure with the bottom of the boat strewn with these bright forms intermingled, it was a sight not soon to be forgotten.  It pleased my eye so, that I would fain linger over them, arranging them in rows and studying the various hues and tints.  They were of nearly a uniform size, rarely one over ten or under eight inches in length, and it seemed as if the hues of all the precious metals and stones were reflected from their sides.  The flesh was deep salmon-color; that of brook trout is generally much lighter.  Some hunters and fishers from the valley of the Mill Brook, whom we met here, told us the trout were much larger in the lake, though far less numerous than they used to be.  Brook trout do not grow large till they become scarce.  It is only in streams that have been long and much fished that I have caught them as much as sixteen inches in length.