Test for Earthy Matters or Alkali in Water.—­Take litmus paper dipped in vinegar, and if, on immersion, the paper returns to its true shade, the water does not contain earthy matter or alkali.  If a few drops of syrup be added to a water containing an earthy matter, it will turn green.

Test for Carbonic Acid in Water.—­Take equal parts of water and clear lime water.  If combined or free carbonic acid is present, a precipitate is seen, to which, if a few drops of muriatic acid be added, an effervescence commences.

Test for Magnesia in Water.—­Boil the water to a twentieth part of its weight, and then drop a few grains of neutral carbonate of ammonia into a glass of it, and a few drops of phosphate of soda.  If magnesia be present, it will fall to the bottom.

Test for Iron in Water.—­1.  Boil a little nutgall and add to the water.  If it turns gray or slate, black iron is present. 2.  Dissolve a little prussiate of potash, and, if iron is present, it will turn blue.

Test for Lime in Water.—­Into a glass of water put two drops of oxalic acid and blow upon it.  If it gets milky, lime is present.

Test for Acid in Water.—­Take a piece of litmus paper.  If it turns red, there must be acid.  If it precipitates on adding lime water, it is carbonic acid.  If a blue sugar paper is turned red, it is a mineral acid.

Value of Manufactured Steel.—­A pound of very fine steel wire to make watch springs of, is worth about $4; this will make 17,000 springs, worth $7,000.

Horses in Norway have a very sensible way of taking their food, which perhaps might be beneficially followed here.  They have a bucket of water put down beside their allowance of hay.  It is interesting to see with what relish they take a sip of the one and a mouthful of the other alternately, sometimes only moistening their mouths, as a rational being would do while eating a dinner of such dry food.  A broken-winded horse is scarcely ever seen in Norway, and the question is if the mode of feeding has not something to do with the preservation of the animal’s respiratory organs.

The Process of Fastening Rubber Rolls on Clothes Wringer.—­1.  Clean shaft thoroughly between the shoulders or washers, where the rubber goes on, 2.  Give the shaft a coat of copal varnish, between the shoulders, and let it dry. 3.  Give shaft coat of varnish and wind shaft tightly as possible with five-ply jute twine at once, while varnish is green, and let it dry for about six hours. 4.  Give shaft over the twine a coat of rubber cement, and let it dry for about six hours. 5.  Give shaft over the twine a second coat of rubber cement, and let it dry for about six hours. 6.  Remove washer on the short end of shaft, also the cogwheel if the shaft has cogs on both ends. 7.  See that the rubber rolls are always longer than the space between the washers where the rubber goes on, as they shrink or take up a little in putting on the shaft. 8.  Clean out the hole