A slice from a nicely cured ham thus cooked is enough to animate the ribs of death.

Or, having taken off the rind, strew bread crumbs or raspings over it, so as to cover it; set it before the fire, or in the oven till the bread is crisp and brown.  Garnish with carrots, parsley, etc.  The water should simmer all the time, and never boil fast.

HAM AND CHICKEN, IN JELLY—­This is a nice dish for supper or luncheon. make with a small knuckle of veal some good white stock.  When cold, skim and strain it; melt it, and put a quart of it into a saucepan with the well beaten whites of three eggs; a dessert-spoonful of chili, or a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a little salt.  Beat the mixture well with a fork till it boils; let it simmer till it is reduced to a little more than a pint; strain it; put half of it into a mold; let it nearly set.  Cut the meat of a roast chicken into small thin pieces; arrange it in the jelly with some neat little slices of cold boiled ham, and sprinkle chopped parsley between the slices.  When it has got quite cold, pour in the remainder of the jelly, and stand the mold in cold water, or in a cool place, so that it sets speedily.  Dip the mold in boiling water to turn it out.  Do not let it remain in the water more than a minute, or it will spoil the appearance of the dish.  Garnish with a wreath of parsley.

LEG OF LAMB—­Should be boiled in a cloth to look as white as possible; the loin fried in steaks and served round, garnished with dried or fried parsley; spinach to eat with it; or dressed separately or roasted.

LOIN OF MUTTON—­Take off the skin, separate the joints with the chopper; if a large size, cut the chine-bone with a saw, so as to allow it to be carved in smaller pieces; run a small spit from one extremity to the other, and affix it to a larger spit, and roast it like the haunch.  A loin weighing six pounds will take one hour to roast.

OBSERVATIONS ON MEAT—­In all kinds of provisions, the best of the kind goes the farthest; it cuts out with most advantage, and affords most nourishment.  Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, are joints of higher price; but as they have more solid meat, they deserve the preference.  But those joints which are inferior may be dressed as palatably.

In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef.  Do not purchase joints bruised by the blows of drovers.

Save shank bones of mutton to enrich gravies or soups.

When sirloins of beef, or loins of veal or mutton, come in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify.

Dripping will baste anything as well as butter; except fowls and game; and for kitchen pies, nothing else should be used.

The fat of a neck or loin of mutton makes a far lighter pudding than suet.

Frosted meat and vegetables should be soaked in cold water two or three hours before using.