Well, I’ve seen my first modern battlefield and am quite disillusioned about the splendour of war.  The splendour is all in the souls of the men who creep through the squalor like vermin—­it’s in nothing external.  There was a chap here the other day who deserved the V.C. four times over by running back through the Hun shell fire to bring news that the infantry wanted more artillery support.  I was observing for my brigade in the forward station at the time.  How he managed to live through the ordeal nobody knows.  But men laugh while they do these things.  It’s fine.

A modern battlefield is the abomination of abominations.  Imagine a vast stretch of dead country, pitted with shell-holes as though it had been mutilated with small-pox.  There’s not a leaf or a blade of grass in sight.  Every house has either been leveled or is in ruins.  No bird sings.  Nothing stirs.  The only live sound is at night—­the scurry of rats.  You enter a kind of ditch, called a trench; it leads on to another and another in an unjoyful maze.  From the sides feet stick out, and arms and faces—­the dead of previous encounters.  “One of our chaps,” you say casually, recognising him by his boots or khaki, or “Poor blighter—­a Hun!” One can afford to forget enmity in the presence of the dead.  It is horribly difficult sometimes to distinguish between the living and the slaughtered—­they both lie so silently in their little kennels in the earthen bank.  You push on—­especially if you are doing observation work, till you are past your own front line and out in No Man’s Land.  You have to crouch and move warily now.  Zing!  A bullet from a German sniper.  You laugh and whisper, “A near one, that.”  My first trip to the trenches was up to No Man’s Land.  I went in the early dawn and came to a Madame Tussaud’s show of the dead, frozen into immobility in the most extraordinary attitudes.  Some of them were part way out of the ground, one hand pressed to the wound, the other pointing, the head sunken and the hair plastered over the forehead by repeated rains.  I kept on wondering what my companions would look like had they been three weeks dead.  My imagination became ingeniously and vividly morbid.  When I had to step over them to pass, it seemed as though they must clutch at my trench coat and ask me to help.  Poor lonely people, so brave and so anonymous in their death!  Somewhere there is a woman who loved each one of them and would give her life for my opportunity to touch the poor clay that had been kind to her.  It’s like walking through the day of resurrection to visit No Man’s Land.  Then the Huns see you and the shrapnel begins to fall—­you crouch like a dog and run for it.

One gets used to shell-fire up to a point, but there’s not a man who doesn’t want to duck when he hears one coming.  The worst of all is the whizz-bang, because it doesn’t give you a chance—­it pounces and is on you the same moment that it bangs.  There’s so much I wish that I could tell you.  I can only say this, at the moment we’re making history.