a law. My young man is consequently apparelled
with ideas, while Mr. Huyshe’s young man is
stiffened with facts; the latter teaches one nothing;
from the former one learns everything. I need
hardly say that this dress is good, not because it
is seventeenth century, but because it is constructed
on the true principles of costume, just as a square
lintel or a pointed arch is good, not because one
may be Greek and the other Gothic, but because each
of them is the best method of spanning a certain-sized
opening, or resisting a certain weight. The
fact, however, that this dress was generally worn
in England two centuries and a half ago shows at least
this, that the right laws of dress have been understood
and realised in our country, and so in our country
may be realised and understood again. As regards
the absolute beauty of this dress and its meaning,
I should like to say a few words more. Mr. Wentworth
Huyshe solemnly announces that ‘he and those
who think with him’ cannot permit this question
of beauty to be imported into the question of dress;
that he and those who think with him take ‘practical
views on the subject,’ and so on. Well,
I will not enter here into a discussion as to how
far any one who does not take beauty and the value
of beauty into account can claim to be practical at
all. The word practical is nearly always the
last refuge of the uncivilised. Of all misused
words it is the most evilly treated. But what
I want to point out is that beauty is essentially organic;
that is, it comes, not from without, but from within,
not from any added prettiness, but from the perfection
of its own being; and that consequently, as the body
is beautiful, so all apparel that rightly clothes
it must be beautiful also in its construction and in
its lines.
I have no more desire to define ugliness than I have
daring to define beauty; but still I would like to
remind those who mock at beauty as being an unpractical
thing of this fact, that an ugly thing is merely a
thing that is badly made, or a thing that does not
serve its purpose; that ugliness is want of fitness;
that ugliness is failure; that ugliness is uselessness,
such as ornament in the wrong place, while beauty,
as some one finely said, is the purgation of all superfluities.
There is a divine economy about beauty; it gives
us just what is needful and no more, whereas ugliness
is always extravagant; ugliness is a spendthrift and
wastes its material; in fine, ugliness—and
I would commend this remark to Mr. Wentworth Huyshe—ugliness,
as much in costume as in anything else, is always
the sign that somebody has been unpractical.
So the costume of the future in England, if it is
founded on the true laws of freedom, comfort, and
adaptability to circumstances, cannot fail to be most
beautiful also, because beauty is the sign always of
the rightness of principles, the mystical seal that
is set upon what is perfect, and upon what is perfect
only.