to the glaciere. I succeeded in getting down
the ladder, by help of the supplement, and looked
down into the dark hole to see that it was practicable,
and then returned to report progress in the upper
regions. We had brought no alpenstocks to Couvet,
so we sent the guide off into the woods, where we
had heard the sound of an axe, to get three stout
sticks from the woodmen; but he returned with such
wretched, crooked little things, that A. went off herself
to forage, and, having found an impromptu cattle-fence,
came back with weapons resembling bulbous hedge-stakes,
which she skinned and generally modified with a powerful
clasp-knife, her constant companion. She then
cut up the crooked sticks into
batons for a
contemplated repair of the ladder, while M. and I
investigated the country near the pit. We found
two other pits, which afterwards proved to communicate
with the glaciere. We could approach sufficiently
near to one of these to see down to the bottom, where
there was a considerable collection of snow:
this pit was completely sheltered from the sun by trees,
and was 66 feet deep and 4 or 5 feet in diameter.
The other was of larger size, but its edge was so
treacherous that we did not venture so near as to
see what it contained: its depth was about 70
feet, and the stone and a foot or two of the string
came up wet. The sides of the main pit, by which
we were to enter the glaciere, were, as has been said,
very sheer, and on one side we could approach sufficiently
near the edge to drop a plummet down to the snow:
the height of this face of rock was 59 feet, measuring
down to the snow, and the level of the ice was eventually
found to be about 4 feet lower. Although it was
now not very far from noon, the sun had not yet reached
the snow, owing partly to the depth of the pit as
compared with its diameter, and partly to the trees
which grew on several sides close to the edge.
One or two trees of considerable size grew out of
the face of rock.
We were now cool enough to attempt the glaciere, and
I commenced the descent with A. The precautions already
taken made the way tolerably possible down to the
buttress of earth and the shelving ledge, and so far
the warm sun had accompanied us; but beyond the ledge
there was nothing but the broken ladder, and deep
shade, and a cold damp atmosphere, which made the
idea, and still more the feel, of snow very much the
reverse of pleasant. A. was not a coward on such
occasions, and she had sufficient confidence in her
guide; but it is rather trying for a lady to make
the first step off a slippery slope of mud, on to
an apology for a ladder which only stands up a few
inches above the lower edge of the slope, and so affords
no support for the hand: nor, after all, can
bravery and trust quite make up for the want of steps.
We were a very long time in accomplishing the descent,
for her feet were always out of her sight, owing to
the shape which female dress assumes when its wearer
goes down a ladder with her face to the front, especially