The landlady had obeyed orders, and was provided with butter and bread.  The tea was served in an open earthenware pitcher, with the spout at right angles with the handle.  There was no cup; but the woman remarked that if monsieur was particular about that, he could turn out the sugar and use the basin, which he did.  The milk had a basin to itself; but it had offered so large and tempting a surface to the flies of the town, that it remained untouched.  The knife and spoon were imbued with ineradicable garlic, and my own trusty clasp-knife was the only weapon I could use for all table purposes.  If it had not been for the ice and the lavender, I think I should never have got away from Die.  The former made it possible to eat some bread-and-butter; and of the latter I made a sort of respirator for nose and mouth, which modified the odour of cocks and hens prevailing in the house.

Next morning the diligence was to start early, and, in preparation for the six hours’ drive, I ordered two eggs to be boiled for breakfast.  As the first proved to have been boiled in tepid water, I requested the landlady to boil the second afresh, which she did in a manner that may partly account for the observed fact that the very eggs of some towns taste of garlic.  There was household soup simmering on the fire, reeking with onion and garlic, and many other abominations; and, as if it was quite the right and usual thing to do, she slipped the unfortunate egg into this, and left it there to be cooked.  After all, garlic must be cheap as an article of food, for the whole bill amounted only to 7-1/2 francs.

This was the last glaciere on my list.  It was quite as well that such was the case; for the trials of Dauphine had been too great, and I should scarcely have been inclined to face further adventures of a like kind.

FOOTNOTES: 

[Footnote 82:  T. xxx. p. 157.]

[Footnote 83:  Vol. ii. p. 80.]

[Footnote 84:  Jean de Choul, De varia Quercus Historia, 1555.]

[Footnote 85:  Gollut, Mem. des Bourg. de la Franche Comte, p. 227.]

[Footnote 86:  Paradin de Cuyseaulx, Annales de Bourgougne, 1566, p. 14.]

[Footnote 87:  Several churches in Vienne are used as foundries and workshops.  S. Peter’s church was an iron-foundry four or five years ago, and is in future to be a museum—­a considerable improvement upon its former use.  The grand old church of S. John in Dijon has been rescued from the hands which made it a depot of flour, and is being restored to its original purposes:  but such instances are very rare.]

[Footnote 88:  This family took its rise in Dauphine, before the district had that name:  the chief place of the family was the chateau of Beaumont, near Grenoble.]

[Footnote 89:  The final victory was near Aquae Sextiae (Aix).]

[Footnote 90:  The cultivation of the silkworm mulberry will probably die out before very long.  The silk crop has lately failed in Dauphine, and a commission for enquiring into the relative merits of different worms has determined that the Senegal worm produces 633 millegrammes of silk, while the worm, fed on the mulberry produces only 290.  The first mulberry trees in France were planted in that part of Provence which is enclosed by Dauphine.