The way proved to be so very long, that we doubted whether such a consummation of our wishes would ever arrive:  but at length, in a small dip at the farthest extremity of the plain, we saw the chalet, and, what was much more to us, saw a little run of water, carried from the rising ground by wooden pipes.  It will be well for any future visitor to the chalet to go very warily, and to intrench himself in a strong position when he sees half-a-dozen huge dogs like black and white bears come out to attack him.  Liotir had a stout stick, and I had a formidable ice-axe; and, moreover, we fortunately secured a wall in our rear:  but with all this the dogs were nearly too much for us, and Liotir was pressing me earnestly to chop at the ringleader’s head, when a man came and called off ‘Dragon,’ and the others then dispersed.  The new-comer wished to know our business, but, without satisfying his curiosity, we rushed to the water-trough, and drank and used in washing an amount of water which he evidently grudged us.  Then we were able to tell him that our business was something to eat for Liotir, and a guide to the glaciere; though I trembled when I suggested the latter, for, after all our labours, I had a sort of fear that the cave would prove a myth.  On this point the man cleared away all doubts at once,—­we could certainly have a guide, as the patron would be sure to let one of them go with us.  As to food, there was more doubt, for the master was not yet at home, and his wife would not be able to give us an answer without consulting him.  The wife confirmed this statement:  they saw very few strangers, and did not profess to supply food to people crossing the plain.  I assured her that we intended to pay well for anything she could let us have, but she merely rejoined that they did not keep an auberge; however, her husband would be home some time in the course of the afternoon—­it was now about half-past twelve—­and she could ask his opinion on the subject.  But Liotir objected that he was meanwhile dying of hunger, and the monsieur of thirst which only milk or cream could assuage; he suggested that some one should be sent to look for the husband, and obtain his permission for us to be fed.  To this she assented, very dubiously, and with a constrained air, as if there were some mysterious reason why the presence of strangers was peculiarly unacceptable on that particular afternoon.  At any rate, she said when pressed, she thought there could be no harm in our entering the chalet and sitting down on a bench, where we should be sheltered from the sun.

Here accordingly we sat, more or less patiently, till the master himself appeared.  He had no welcome for us; but he was willing that we should eat some of his black bread, and try his wine.  Liotir begged for cheese, and the wife was told she might supply cheese of two kinds, and also cream, for the monsieur evidently was malade and could not swallow wine.  The cream and the black bread were delicious;