lies between Vienne and Lyons, being one of the loftiest
northern summits of the Cevennes, on the borders of
the Lyonnaise.[84] The Romans recognised the fitness
of the neighbourhood of Vienne for the cultivation
of the grape, and the first vine in Gaul was planted
on the Mont d’Or in the second century of the
Christian era. In Burgundian times the city held
a very prominent place, and became infamous from the
frequent shedding of royal blood; so that early historians
describe it as ’
tousiours fatale a ceux qui
vueillent la corone des Bourgougnons,’[85]
and as ’
fatale et de malencotre aux tyras
et mauvais princes.’[86] Ecclesiastically,
its interest dates of course from a very early period,
from the times of the martyrs of Gaul and the first
Rogations. The Festival of
Les Merveilles
long commemorated the restoration of the bodily forms
of the Lyonnese martyrs, as their scattered dust floated
past the home of Blandina and Ponticus; and the dedication
of the cathedral to S. Maurice keeps alive the tradition
that Paschasius, bishop of Vienne, was warned by an
angel to watch on the banks of the Rhone, and so rescued
the head and trunk of the soldier-martyr, which had
been cast into the river at Agaunum (S. Maurice
in Valais), and had floated down—probably
on sounder hydrostatical principles than the ’Floating
Martyr’—through the Lake of Geneva,
and so to Vienne. There are still many very interesting
Roman remains in the city, as the Temple of Augusta
and Livia, the Arcade of the Forum, and the monument
seen from the railway to the south of the town.
The temple is being carefully restored, and the large
collection of Roman curiosities which it contained
is to be removed to the church of S. Peter, now in
course of restoration, which will in itself be worth
a visit to Vienne when the restoration is completed.[87]
All the buildings connected with the Great Council
in 1311 have disappeared; and the only relic of the
council seems to be the Chalice,
or, surmounted
by the Sacred Host,
argent, in the city arms,
in remembrance of the institution of the Fete of the
S. Corps. If the Emperor would but
have the town and its inhabitants deodorised, few places
would be better worth visiting than Vienne.
The poste leaves Valence—the home of the
White Hermitage—for Die at 2.30 P.M., and
professes to reach its destination in six hours; but
sad experience showed that it could be unfaithful
to the extent of an hour and a half. So long
as the daylight lasted, there was no dearth of objects
of interest; but when darkness came on, the monotonous
roll of the heavy diligence became aggravating in
the extreme. The village of Beaumont, once the
residence of an important branch of the great Beaumont
family,[88] retains still its square tower and old
gateway; and the remains of a chateau near Montmeyran,
the end of the first stage, mark the scene of the
victory of Marius over the Ambrons and Teutons, local
antiquaries believing that the name of Montmeyran is