are military officers), an old moustache of the Mexican
war, broods over the large establishment like the father
of a great family. With the men he is wise on
a point of horseflesh or the quality of the brandy;
with the matrons he is courtly, gallant, anecdotic:
the young women appear to idolize him, and lean their
pretty elbows on his desk half the day, for he is their
protector, chevalier, entertainer, bonbon-holder,
adviser and elder brother, all in one. Such is
the landlord, as that rare expert is understood in
the South. As for the regimen, it is the rarest
kind of Pleasure made Medicinal, and that must be
the reason of its efficacy. There is a superb
pool of tepid water for the gentlemen to bathe in:
a similar one, extremely discreet, for the ladies.
Besides these, of which the larger is sixty feet long,
there are individual baths, drinking fountains in
arbors, sulphur and iron springs, all close to the
hotel. The water, emerging all the year round
at a temperature of about seventy-five degrees, remains
unfrozen in winter to the distance of a mile or more
along the rivulet by which it escapes. The flavor
is so little nauseous that the pure issue of the spring
is iced for ordinary table use; and this, coupled
with the fact that we could not detect the slightest
unusual taste, gave us the gravest doubts about the
trustworthiness of this mineral fountain’s old
and unblemished reputation: another indication
is, that they have never had the liquid analyzed.
But the gouty, the rheumatic, the paralyzed, the dyspeptic,
who draw themselves through the current, and let the
current draw itself through them, are content with
no such negative virtues for it, and assign
To Berkeley every virtue under heaven.
The mountain-village known to Washington as “Bath”
is still a scene of fashionable revel: the over-dressed
children romp, the old maids flirt, the youthful romancers
spin in each other’s arms to music from the
band, and dowagers carefully drink at the well from
the old-fashioned mug decorated with Poor Richard’s
maxims; but the festivities have a decorous and domestic
look that would meet the pity of one of the regular
ante-rebellion bloods. After the good people
have retired at an early hour, we fancy the ghost of
a lofty Virginia swell standing in the moonlight upon
the piazza, which he decorates with gleams of phantom
saliva. Attended by his teams of elegant horses,
and surrounded by a general halo of gambling, racing,
tourneying and cock-fighting, he seems to shake his
lank hair sadly over the poor modern carnival, and
say, “Their tameness is shocking to me.”