Dr. Nevin, our pastoral shepherd, has really done a great deal for the American church here and ought to have a vote of thanks.  He has collected so much money that he has not only built the pretty church, but has decorated it with Burne-Jones’s tall angels and copies of the mosaics from Ravenna.  He has also built a comfortable rectory, which he has filled with rare bric-a-brac.  They say that no one is a better match for the wily dealers in antiquities than the reverend gentleman, and the pert little cabmen don’t dare to try any of their tricks on him.

He shows another side of his character when in the pulpit.

The mere sound of his own voice in reading the Scriptures affects him to tears.  Last Sunday he almost broke down completely when he was reading about Elijah and the bears (a tale which does not seem in the least pathetic to me).  He is a great sportsman and plays all games with enthusiasm, and is a fervent but bad whist-player, and when he revokes (which he often does) we suppose he is thinking out his next Sunday’s sermon.  In the summer vacation he goes to the Rocky Mountains and kills bears.

A few Sundays ago it was, if ever, the occasion to say, “Don’t kill the organist; he is doing his best.”  Signor Rotoli (the organist), who does not know one word of English, was dozing through Dr. Nevin’s usual sermon, and, having the music open before him of the solo that Mr. Grant (the tenor) was going to sing, heard the first words of the prayer, “O Lord, grant—­” thought that it was the signal for the anthem, and crashed down the opening chords.

Dr. Nevin looked daggers at him, as if he could have killed him on the spot, and had there been anything at hand heavier than his sermon he certainly would have thrown it at him.

March, 1881.

Dear ——­,—­The carnival is over.  As it is the first carnival I have ever seen, I must describe it to you.  It lasts almost a week.  It commenced last Wednesday and finished yesterday.  Mr. Saumares, of the English Embassy, had taken a balcony just opposite the Palazzo Fiano, where the Queen always goes.  He invited us for the whole week, and when we were not in the fray ourselves, we went there at five o’clock to take tea and to see the corso di barbeir (the race of the wild horses).  The first day of the carnival we were full of energy and eagerness.  We were all in our shabbiest clothes, as this is the customary thing.  The coachman and the valet also had their worst clothes on, which is saying a good deal, and the horses were even worse than usual, which is saying a good deal more.  The carriages were filled to overflowing with flowers, bonbons, and confetti by the bushel.  Our servant, Giuseppe, had been since early morning bargaining for the things, and after tucking us in the carriage he contemplated us with pride as we drove off.

We started from the Piazzo del Popolo at three o’clock, and pelted every one, exhausting our ammunition recklessly.  Dirty little beggar-boys would jump on the step of the carriage and snatch what flowers they could, even out of our hands, and would then sell them back to us, scrambling for the soldi which we threw at them; and, what was worse, they picked the same bouquets up, which by this time had become mere stems without flowers and covered with mud, and threw them at us.  They wanted their fun, too.