The loge reserved for the Diplomatic Corps is directly opposite the Queen’s.  After a few moments’ pause the platform supporting the throne was noiselessly invaded by numerous officers in their glittering and brilliant uniforms, and members of the court in their court dress covered with decorations, who took their places on each side of the throne.  The King came in quietly without any pomp, and was greeted by the most enthusiastic and prolonged demonstration.  He acknowledged the ovation, but evidently chafed under the slight delay, as if impatient to commence his speech.  Before doing so he turned toward the Queen’s loge with a respectful inclination of the head, as if to acknowledge her presence, then, bowing to the Diplomatic loge and turning to the audience, read his proclamation.

It was most difficult to hear what the King said, perched as we were high above him; but we understood by the frequent interruptions and the enthusiastic benes and bravos and the clapping of hands that what he said pleased his subjects.  The speech over, the King, accompanied by his suite, left as quietly as he had entered, amid the vociferous applause that followed.  The Queen then arose, smiled and bowed to the assembly, and withdrew.

The streets were thronged with soldiers and people, and it was as much as his life was worth for the coachman to draw up in front of the door.

Mr. and Mrs. Field have almost completed their enormous palace out by Santa Maria Maggiore, but they have not, as they hoped, succeeded in making that part of Rome fashionable.  They have bought land as far as the Colosseum; Nero’s gold house, which stands in a finocchi patch, is theirs too.  The tenement-houses near them continue to festoon the facades with the week’s wash in every state of unrepair.  There is no privacy about the Italians washing their dirty linen, though they do wash at home.

I seem to be introducing you to all Rome.

Mr. and Mme. Minghetti are old friends—­that is, I have known her from 1866.  Then she was Princess Camporeale, very handsome and captivating.  She is just as attractive now and holds Rome in her hand.  Her salon is the salon where all fashionable Rome flocks.  She has arranged it in the most artistic manner.  It is crowded with furniture, with cozy corners and flirtatious nooks between armoires and palm-trees.  Valuable old pictures and tapestries decorate the walls.  The salon is two stories high and has an ornamental little winding staircase on which an enormous stuffed peacock stands with outspread tail, as if guarding things below.  On her Sunday afternoons one is sure to hear some good music.  No one refuses, as it gives a person a certain prestige to be heard there.

Mr. Minghetti, possessing the order of the Annunciata (the highest decoration of Italy), is called “Le cousin du Roi.”  He is a great personage.  He has been Prime Minister and still plays a very conspicuous part in politics.  He has written many books on constitutional law.  He is tall, handsome, and altogether delightful.