When we had finished our walks about town, the day was far spent, and the setting sun bade us hasten to our lodging; for here there is no twilight, so that in a few minutes after the orb of day has disappeared night supervenes, and the moon rules the heavens.  The few cattle which belonged to the inhabitants were brought into a pen at the town-wall, where they are watched at night by armed men.  We found a fire of blazing wood in Samba’s hut, and sat down on mats to gossip and smoke till dinner should be served.  The ladies brought in the kooskoos, and other viands already described, in wooden bowls, and laid them on the floor; they then retired, as they never eat with the men.  Each guest is expected to help himself with his fingers, and Samba hoped to play us a little trick in return for one played upon himself.  When he visited us on board ship we provided only knives and forks, which all were expected to use.  Poor Samba could hardly get a mouthful, and was the laughing-stock of the company, till in mercy a spoon was brought to him.  He now ordered the stews to be made thin, and the meat to be cut up in small morsels, hoping to see us very awkward in using our fingers; when suddenly we produced pocket spoons and knives, which turned the joke against him and his negro friends, for the food was too watery for themselves to manage well with their hands.

After our repast we went out to see the dancing.  This favourite amusement of the Africans takes place in the open air when the weather is fine; in wet weather it is held in the bentang, and when it is dark large fires are kindled to give light to the performers.  They have two or three musical instruments, the chief of which is a drum.  When this is beat, all the young folks become animated, and dance to the sound, clapping their hands, and performing a number of evolutions, some of which are not the most seemly.  They keep up this exercise through a great part of the night; so that we left them in the midst of their sport, and retired to rest.  Our preparations for sleep were soon made, by simply lying down upon the mats placed upon the hurdle.  The negroes are very susceptible of cold, and complain of it when we are panting with heat; but the fire in their huts keeps up the desired temperature.  They sleep very soundly, and cannot be easily aroused till after sun-rise.  In the morning we made a slight repast of gruel, to which a kind of hasty-pudding with shea-butter was added for our peculiar gratification.  This butter is made of the fruit of the shea-tree, which is not unlike a Spanish olive, and has a kernel from which the butter is extracted by boiling.  It is in great repute, having a richer taste than the butter of milk, and keeping for a long time without salt, which is very expensive in Africa.  After breakfast we took leave of our kind host and his family, and returned in the same way we came.