While steaming up the river I frequently saw temporary dwellings of poles and bark like our Indian wigwams.  These were at the fishing stations upon sand bars or low islands.  The afternoon following our departure from Gorin I counted about thirty huts, or yourts, on one island, and more than fifty boats on the river.

For half a mile the scene was animated and interesting.  Some boats were near the shore, their inmates hauling seines or paddling up or down the stream.  In one heavily laden boat there was one man steering with a paddle.  Four men towed the craft against the current, and behind it was another drawn by six dogs.  Out in the river were small skiffs and canoes in couples, engaged in holding nets across the direction of the current.  The paddles wore struck regularly and slowly to prevent drifting down the stream.

[Illustration:  TEN MILES AN HOUR.]

One boat with two men rowing and another steering attempted a race with the steamer and fairly passed us, though we were making ten miles an hour.  All these natives are very skillful in managing their boats.

When we passed near a boat we were greeted with ’Mendow, mendow,’ the Mongol word of welcome.  Sometimes we were hailed with the Russian salutation of ‘sdrastveteh.’  In one boat I saw a Goldee belle dressed with considerable taste and wearing a ring in the cartilage of her nose.  How powerful are the mandates of Fashion!  This damsel would scorn to wear her pendants after the manner of Paris and New York, while the ladies of Broadway and the Boulevards would equally reject the Goldee custom.

The natives of this part of the Amoor have a three-pronged spear like a Neptune’s trident, and handle it with much dexterity.  The spear-head is attached to a long line, and when a fish is struck the handle is withdrawn.  The fish runs out the line, which is either held in the hand or attached to a bladder floating on the water.

Ropes and nets are made from hemp and the common sting nettle, the latter being preferred.  The nettle-stalks are soaked in water and then dried and pounded till the fibres separate.  Ropes and cords are equal to those of civilized manufacture, though sometimes not quite as smooth.  Thread for sewing and embroidery comes from China, and is purchased of Manjour traders.

The night after we left Gorin the boat took wood at the village of Doloe.  It was midnight when we arrived, and as I walked through the village nearly all the inhabitants were sleeping.  The only perambulating resident was very drunk and manifested a desire to embrace me, but as I did not know his language and could not claim relationship I declined the honor.  Near the river there was a large building for government stores and a smaller one for the men guarding it.  A few hundred yards distant there was a Goldee village, and for want of something better Borasdine proposed that we should call on one of its inhabitants.  We took a Russian peasant to guide and introduce us, our credentials and passports having been left on the steamer.