Over the after cabin there was a cook-house, where dwelt a shabby and unwholesome cuisinier.  Between the wheels was a bridge, occupied by the captain when starting or stopping the boat; the engines, of thirty horse power, were below deck, under this bridge.  The cabins, without state rooms, occupied the whole width of the boat.  Wide seats with cushions extended around the cabins, and served as beds at night.  Each passenger carried his own bedding and was his own chambermaid.  The furniture consisted of a fixed table, two feet by ten, a dozen stools, a picture of a saint, a mirror, and a boy, the latter article not always at hand.

The cabins were unclean, and reminded me of the general condition of transports during our late war.  Can any philosopher explain why boats in the service of government are nearly always dirty?

The personnel of the boat consisted of a captain, mate, engineer, two pilots, and eight or ten men.  The captain and mate were in uniform when we left port, but within two hours they appeared in ordinary suits of grey.  The crew were deck hands, roustabouts, or firemen, by turns, and when we took wood most of the male deck passengers were required to assist.  On American steamboats the after cabin is the aristocratic one; on the Amoor the case is reversed.  The steerage passengers lived, moved, and had their being and baggage aft the engine, while their betters were forward.  This arrangement gave the steerage the benefit of all cinders and smoke, unless the wind was abeam or astern.

Steam navigation on the Amoor dates from 1854.  In that year two wooden boats, the Shilka and the Argoon, were constructed on the Shilka river, preparatory to the grand expedition of General Mouravieff.  Their timber was cut in the forests of the Shilka, and their engines were constructed at Petrovsky-Zavod.  The Argoon was the first to descend, leaving Shilikinsk on the 27th of May, 1854, and bringing the Governor General and his staff.  It was accompanied by fifty barges and a great many rafts loaded with military forces to occupy the Amoor, and with provisions for the Pacific fleet.  The Shilka descended a few months later.  She was running in 1866, but the Argoon, the pioneer, existed less than a decade.  In 1866 there were twenty-two steamers on the Amoor, all but four belonging to the government.

The government boats are engaged in transporting freight, supplies, soldiers, and military stores generally, and carrying the mail.  They carry passengers and private freight at fixed rates, but do not give insurance against fire or accidents of navigation.  Passengers contract with the captain or steward for subsistence while on board.  Deck passengers generally support themselves, but can buy provisions on the boat if they wish.  The steward may keep wines and other beverages for sale by the bottle, but he cannot maintain a bar.  He has various little speculations of his own and does not feed his customers liberally.  On the Ingodah the steward purchased eggs at every village, and expected to sell them at a large profit in Nicolayevsk.  When we left him he had at least ten bushels on hand, but he never furnished eggs to us unless we paid extra for them.