This article of apparel is comfortable only when one is seated or extended in his equipage.  Walking is very difficult in a dehar, and its wearer feels about as free to move as if enclosed in a pork-barrel.  It was a long time before I could turn my collar up or down without assistance, and frequently after several efforts to seize an outside object I found myself grasping the ends of my sleeves.  The warmth of the garment atones for its cumbersome character, and its gigantic size is fully intentional.  The length protects the feet and legs, the high collar warms the head, and the great width of the dehar allows it to be well wrapped about the body.  The long sleeves cover the hands and preserve fingers from frost bites.  Taken as a whole it is a mental discomfort but a physical good, and may be considered a necessary nuisance of winter travel in Siberia.

At Ust Kiachta, the last station before reaching our journey’s end, we were waited upon by a young and tidy woman in a well-kept room.  It was about nine in the evening when we reached Troitskosavsk, and entered town among the large buildings formerly occupied as a frontier custom house.  As there was no hotel we drove to the house of the Police Master, the highest official of the place.  I had letters to this gentleman, but did not find him at home.  His brother took us in charge and sent a soldier to direct us to a house where we could obtain lodgings.

It is the custom in Siberian towns to hold a certain number of lodging places always ready for travelers.  These are controlled by the Police Master, to whom strangers apply for quarters.  Whether he will or no, a man who has registered lodging rooms with the police must open them to any guest assigned him, no matter what the hour.  It was ten o’clock when we reached our destined abode.  We made a great deal of noise that roused a servant to admit us to the yard.  The head of the household came to the door in his shirt and rubbed his eyes as if only half awake.  His legs trembled with the cold while he waited for our explanations, and it was not till we were admitted that he thought of his immodest exposure.

I would not wish it inferred that no one can find lodgings until provided by the police.  On the contrary, it is rarely necessary to obtain them through this channel.  Travelers are not numerous, and the few strangers visiting Siberia are most cordially welcomed.  Officers are greeted and find homes with their fellow officers, while merchants enjoy the hospitalities of men of their class.

We ordered the samovar, and being within Parrott-gun range of China we had excellent tea.  I passed the night on a sofa so narrow that I found it difficult to turn over, and fairly rolled to the floor while endeavoring to bestow myself properly.  While finishing my morning toilet I received a visit from Major Boroslofski, Master of Police, who came to acknowledge General Ditmar’s letter of introduction.  He tendered the hospitalities of the place, and desired me to command his services while I remained.