Resealing.  The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch shorter than originally.  Remove the reflanging base, put one of the narrow washers on the top of the can-raising lever, then the standard can base, and the sealer is now ready.  Proceed as with the original can.

Cutting the Can the Second Time.  Proceed as at the first time, only be sure to cut off the opposite end.  The can may be cut open and reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body.  In cutting and reflanging the second time, leave the three-sixteenth-inch washer under the can base and reflanging base.

Resealing the Second Time.  Remove reflanging base and put the second three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base and proceed as directed under resealing.

THE SOLDERING OUTFIT

The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a tipping copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass or stoneware cup in which to keep the soldering flux:  sal ammoniac, a few scraps of zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file.

Soldering Flux.  Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in crude muriatic acid.  It is used for cleaning the irons and for brushing the tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for the melted lead to adhere to the tin.

To Make the Flux.  Purchase at the drug store ten cents’ worth of crude muriatic acid.  Place this in a porcelain, stone or glass jar.  Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will thoroughly dissolve.  The flux is always best when it has stood from twelve to sixteen hours before using.  Strain through a piece of cloth or muslin.  Dilute with a little water, about half and half.  This will make the soldering flux.  When using keep the flux well mixed and free from dust and dirt.

Tinning Capping Iron.  Purchase five or ten cents worth of sal ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife.  Mix a little solder with the sal ammoniac.  Heat the capping iron hot enough so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a liquid.  Place the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal ammoniac and solder.  Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering edge of the iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the solder.  All particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, should be removed from the iron before tinning.

Tinning the Tipping Copper.  The tipping copper is tinned in very much the same way as the iron.  Sometimes it is desirable to file the tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to correct the point.  Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the mixture of sal ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the melted lead and is bright as silver.  The copper should be filed nearly to a sharp point.

Capping a Tin Can.  Use one tin can for experimenting.  By capping and tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and simply putting another cap on the same can, you can use this one can until you become proficient in capping.