able to conjure up no image of majesty and beauty
eclipsing the reality. For all this and much
more is now under way: streets have been leveled
and paved and parked, embankments have been terraced,
boulevards have been planted with mile-long rows of
lindens, blossoming gardens have been laid out, fountains
have been opened, and such dwellings erected with
their grass-plots and their water-jets before them,
in place of the bare old barracks and shanties, that
it is now a city of parks and palaces. Your carriage
can roll for leagues over streets whose roadway is
smooth as a floor, past squares rich in the foliage
and flower of their season, enchanting pictures of
river and height unveiled at every turn, and the squalor
once so prominent is seen striking its tents, while
only the splendor remains. There is hardly a street
but down its vista some allurement is displayed:
this one reaches far away, through the green of willows
and the blue of distance, across the Long Bridge and
into the hills of Virginia; that one ends in the Agricultural
Department and its delightful grounds; down these the
Institution is seen at various angles in various guises;
while the great Pennsylvania Avenue gives you at one
end the Capitol dome, always a thin and pale blue
mist about its whiteness, with the shining colonnades
that bear it lifted high over the tossing treetops
below, and at the other end the southern facade of
the Treasury, rising before you like an antique temple,
while noble views open at every intersection of the
cross-streets there; and toward nightfall the distant
mists of the river-country beyond build up sunsets
unrivaled in their gorgeousness.
There are few more interesting thoroughfares in the
world than this avenue. Here ruler and ruled
jostle each other; here thunder the liveried equipages
of foreign nobles; here saunters the President, and
nobody turns to look. Sooner or later all the
famous of the world are tolerably sure to be met upon
it: as we walk there History walks beside us
and mighty shadows move before us. Washington
has dashed down that avenue in his yellow chariot
that was painted with cupids and drawn by six white
horses; Hamilton, Jefferson, La Fayette, Burr, and
all the gods of the republic have trodden it before
us; dishonoring British squadrons have marched upon
it; it has shaken to the tread of our own legions;
and great forms begin to loom in the national memory
that have just passed from its daily crowds. Nor
does all its interest belong to the past: those
daily crowds themselves are full of perpetual dramas
in which the actors are unknown perhaps to fame or
fiction, but none the less real and in sad earnest
with their play. Here goes a little withered
man in his threadbare coat: he has a proud and
scowling face, but he pauses with a singularly sweet
and gentle manner at every group of children, black
or white. He is an old numismatician, a foreigner,
and his youth in Europe was given to the gathering
of coins and medals till he had a nearly unrivaled