For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable:  some five feet in length; the width of a man’s body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends.  It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.

Ranged on the beach, the bathers, by hundreds dash in; and diving under the swells, make straight for the outer sea, pausing not till the comparatively smooth expanse beyond has been gained.  Here, throwing themselves upon their boards, tranquilly they wait for a billow that suits.  Snatching them up, it hurries them landward, volume and speed both increasing, till it races along a watery wall, like the smooth, awful verge of Niagara.  Hanging over this scroll, looking down from it as from a precipice, the bathers halloo; every limb in motion to preserve their place on the very crest of the wave.  Should they fall behind, the squadrons that follow would whelm them; dismounted, and thrown forward, as certainly would they be run over by the steed they ride.  ’Tis like charging at the head of cavalry:  you must on.

An expert swimmer shifts his position on his plank; now half striding it; and anon, like a rider in the ring, poising himself upright in the scud, coming on like a man in the air.

At last all is lost in scud and vapor, as the overgrown billow bursts like a bomb.  Adroitly emerging, the swimmers thread their way out; and like seals at the Orkneys, stand dripping upon the shore.

Landing in smooth water, some distance from the scene, we strolled forward; and meeting a group resting, inquired for Uhia, their king.  He was pointed out in the foam.  But presently drawing nigh, he embraced Media, bidding all welcome.

The bathing over, and evening at hand, Uhia and his subjects repaired to their canoes; and we to ours.

Landing at another quarter of the island, we journeyed up a valley called Monlova, and were soon housed in a very pleasant retreat of our host.

Soon supper was spread.  But though the viands were rare, and the red wine went round and round like a foaming bay horse in the ring; yet we marked, that despite the stimulus of his day’s good sport, and the stimulus of his brave good cheer, Uhia our host was moody and still.

Said Babbalanja “My lord, he fills wine cups for others to quaff.”

But whispered King Media, “Though Uhia be sad, be we merry, merry men.”

And merry some were, and merrily went to their mats.

CHAPTER XCI Of King Uhia And His Subjects

As beseemed him, Uhia was royally lodged.  Ample his roof.  Beneath it a hundred attendants nightly laying their heads.  But long since, he had disbanded his damsels.

Springing from syren embrace—­“They shall sap and mine me no more” he cried “my destiny commands me.  I will don my manhood.  By Keevi! no more will I clasp a waist.”